Helping our users. Crochet Santa Slippers.
You’ll need:
Worsted weight yarn / Aran weight wool;
Crochet hook 5 mm.
Size: S (6 and smaller), M (6-10), L (10 and larger).
Notes
The chain(s) at the start of rounds do not count as a stitch.
The 1st stitch of the round is done in the same stitch as the starting chain(s).
Each round is finished by joining with a slip stitch to the first stitch of the round (not the starting chain).
“2hdc” = 2 x hdc in same stitch; “hdc x 2” = hdc in the next 2 stitches, etc.
Instructions
In red yarn, working in the round, starting with the toe:
Round 1 (S/M/L): Make a magic circle and ch2, dc x 12 in circle, join, pull circle closed. [12]
Round 2 (S/M/L): ch1, *hdc x 2, 2hdc* 4 times, join. [16] Round 1 join (left); Round 2 join (right)
Round 3 (S/M/L): ch1, *hdc x 3, 2hdc* 4 times, join. [20] Round 4 (M/L): ch1, *hdc x 3, 2hdc* 5 times, join. [25] Round 5 (L): ch1, *hdc x 4, 2hdc* 5 times, join. [30]
This completes the expansion rounds for the slipper sock – the next rounds will be keeping with this stitch count and include the black ‘belt’ rounds at the front of the sock.
Small:
Rounds 4-5: ch1, hdc x 20, join. [20]
Rounds 6-7: in black yarn, ch1, hdc x 20, join. [20 ] (To create the ‘belt’)
Rounds 8-9: in red yarn, ch1, hdc x 20, join. [20]
Medium:
Rounds 5-6: ch1, hdc x 25, join. [25]
Rounds 7-8: in black yarn, ch1, hdc x 25, join. [25] (To create the ‘belt’)
Rounds 9-11: in red yarn, ch1, hdc x 25, join. [25]
Large:
Rounds 6-7: ch1, hdc x 30, join. [30]
Rounds 8-9: in black yarn, ch1, hdc x 30, join. [30] (To create the ‘belt’)
Rounds 10-13: in red yarn, ch1, hdc x 25, join. [30]
For all sizes, now you will be working in rows. Do not turn work; continue working ‘right side’.
Row 10/12/14: ch1, hdc in same stitch, hdc x 13/17/21. [S=14, M=18, L=22]
Row 11/13/15: ch1 and turn work, hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc x 13/17/21. [S=14, M=18, L=22]
Repeat the last Row until you reach the desired length for your foot size. As you want the slipper sock to be snug, I’d suggest that the slipper be at least 2-3 cm shorter than the length of your foot. If in doubt, go a little smaller rather than larger – the slipper will stretch on the foot when worn, and you don’t want them falling off!
Joining at the heel
Turn the slipper and fold it so the last row you crocheted is in half, matching up your stitches evenly.
You can either choose to slip stitch down from the top to the bottom of the heel, or alternatively you can use a tapestry needle to get a smooth join with a mattress stitch.
To slip stitch join, ch1 and slip stitch evenly down your stitches to the base of the heel.
To mattress stitch join, cut your yarn leaving a long tail and bind off. Use the yarn tail to complete the mattress stitch join down the length of the heel to the base.
Cut yarn and weave in ends.
Upper trim in white yarn, working in the round again:
Round 1: Join yarn to middle stitch at the back and ch 1, sc in the same stitch and then sc evenly around the top of the slipper sock and join with a sl. st. to your first sc. (There should be 1 stitch per row down each side.)
Round 2: ch1, sc2tog, sc2tog, then sc around the rest of the stitches again until you reach the last 4 stitches, then sc2tog, sc2tog and slip stitch to join. (The decreases at the back of the heel help keep the slipper on your foot.)
Cut yarn and weave in ends.
That’s the basic slipper part done.
Now on to the buckle decoration!
With yellow or gold yarn, sew on a buckle design in the centre of the black rows on the front part of the slipper. Weave in ends.