Helping our users. ​Crochet Summer Shoes.

You’ll need:

Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton (Weight: 4/medium* – 186 yds, 3.5 oz);

Grass Taupe (#761-122)– 1 skein;

Taupe (#761-122) (or color to match flip flop sole) – 1 skein;

Tapestry needle;

Crochet hook 2,25 mm;

Crochet hook 4 mm;

Measuring tape;

1 pair of flip flops (One size smaller than you wear normally. See pattern notes.)

Sharp tool to poke holes;

Sharp scissors;

Stitch markers;

Strong glue such as E6000 to glue strap plugs to sole (optional).

Gauge: 7.5 sc = 12 rounds = 2”

Sizes: This pattern works well for a women’s size 6-10. See notes for suggestions on making larger size.

Overall Pattern + Sizing Notes

Transforming flip flops into shoes isn’t an exact science! Keep an open mind and don’t be afraid to customize the shoes to your liking.

You’ll likely want to size down when buying your flip flops. Look for a flop flop that offers about .25″ of sole around your foot (more like the fit of a normal shoe). In the pattern sizing, the shoe sizes mentioned describe the shoe size you normally wear and not the sized-down size of your flip flops.

Pattern explains locations on the flip flop as if it’s a clock where the top of the toe is 12:00 and the heel is 6:00.

Similar to some ballet flats, your shoes should curl in a bit. That’s what gets them to shape to your feet without a lot of increasing or decreasing. They will stretch out slightly with wear.

The shoes are crocheted tightly, similar to amigurumi. Make a deliberate effort to keep your stitches tighter than normal. Check your gauge if you’re unsure.

The shoe sides and heel are worked in a spiral, so you will not ch 1 at the beginning of each round.

Left and right shoes are identical.

To make a larger size shoe, try adding an additional round or two in Rounds 1-9. You may also choose to work one extra repeat of Rows 2 and 3 in the toe section.

Instructions

Trim straps off flip flops by cutting the mid-foot straps at an extreme angle so you can keep them in place without feeling them inside the shoe. (See photo below for example of straps cuff off.) Save the rubber plug from the strap between your toes and glue back in place if desired.

Tape ruler around flip flop sole. Alternatively, hold a measuring tape up to the flip flop sole. With your sharp instrument, poke holes in each dot on the ruler or approximately 7 mm apart. Pierce the hole at an angle from about the middle of the way down the sole to approximately .25” into the top of the sole. Ensure your holes are far enough from the edge so that the yarn won’t rip through the rubber when you create your first row of crochet. If using heavier cotton that’s more similar to a worsted weight cotton, try poking holes approximately 1 cm apart.

Tie slip knot around smaller hook. Insert hook at back of heel (6:00 position) from the top of the flip flop toward the bottom of the sole, grabbing the yarn and pulling through to the top of the flip flop and through the slip knot to attach the yarn to the flip flop. Crochet over the tail of this yarn as you work Round 1.

Round 1: Continuing with smaller hook, sc in each hole around sole, join with a sl st to first sc. Do not turn. Place marker in first st of round and move it up as you work each round (or just keep track of which sole hole you began in).

Rounds 2-9: With larger hook, sc in each sc around sole. Do not turn.

Remove marker. Place stitch markers at 4:00 and 8:00 positions. This is where the back heel “lip” of your slipper will taper to.

Do not turn work, continue with the rest of row 9.

Row 9 cont: Sc in each sc until 1 st remains before next marked st, sl st in next sc, turn.

Tip: To make heel taper appear smoother, keep working yarn toward the inside of shoe when starting Rows 10-13. (For example, see 8:25 mark of video tutorial above. Similarly, if you have questions about Rows 10-13, reference the video tutorial for extra help.)

Row 10: Ch 1, sk first sl st, sl st in next sc, sc in each sc until 1 st remains before next marked st, sl st in next sc, turn.

Rows 11-12: Ch 1, sk first sl st, sl st in next sc, sc in each sc until 3 stitches remain before next marked st, sl st in next sc, turn.

Row 13: Ch 1, sk first sl st, sl st in next sc, sc in each sc to back of the heel, sl st in next sc. Fasten off.

Do not weave in end. You’ll work over this tail later.

Top of Shoe

Find the approximate midpoint of the front of the slipper (12:00), then place stitch markers at the 1:30 and 10:30 positions with 12 sc between them.

Join yarn in 11:00 marked st. (Left handed crocheters, join in 1:00 marked st.) Weave in the tail from attaching yarn now before this section is worked or crochet over it in Row 1.

Row 1 (RS): With the toe facing toward you, sk next sc, dc in each of next 10 sc, sk next sc, sl st in next 3 sc of Rnd 9 (up left edge of shoe), turn. (10 dc)

Row 2 (WS): Sk next 3 sl sts, [1 puff st in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc] 5 times, sk next empty sc of Rnd 9, sl st in next 3 sc of Rnd 9 (up left edge of shoe), turn. (5 puff sts, 5 chs)

Row 3 (RS): Sk next 3 sl sts, dc in each puff stitch and ch to create 10 total dc, sk next empty sc up left edge of shoe, sl st in next 3 sc of Rnd 9 (up left edge of shoe), turn. (10 dc)

Row 4 (WS): Rep Row 2. (5 puff sts, 5 chs)

Row 5 (RS): Rep Row 3, but do not turn at end of row. (10 dc)

Round 1 is worked clockwise (left-handed crocheters: counter clockwise) from where yarn is currently attached, around heel and back to wear Row 5 began. It then continues on to create one final row of the toe section. Crochet over yarn tail at heel as you work. While crocheting over heel lip short rows, work stitches at whatever frequency necessary to create the smoothest edge. (See photo below.)

If the shoe is fitting a bit loose, work 2-3 decrease stitches (sc2tog) near the heel as you crochet Round 1.

Round 1: Sc in each empty sc st around sides and heel of shoe stopping once you reach the shoe top section; to finish toe section with a scalloped edge: [3 sc in first dc, sl st in next dc] 5 times, sl st in next 2 sts from beginning of round.