Crochet Maeve Cardigan: A Cozy and Stylish Wardrobe Essential

The Crochet Maeve Cardigan is an absolute must-have for any cozy wardrobe! With its intricate crochet design and stylish silhouette, this cardigan effortlessly adds a touch of charm to any outfit. Whether you're lounging at home or stepping out for a casual outing, the Maeve Cardigan keeps you looking chic and feeling comfy.

Materials

Worsted (4) Weight Yarn, Lion Brand Heartland in Canyonlands 5(6, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 8 skeins) or 1200(1270, 1340, 1400, 1480, 1560, 1650, 1720, 1790) yards

I/5.5mm Crochet Hook

Needle

Scissors

Measuring Tape

Stitch Markers (3)

Gauge

13 Sts by 8 rows= 4×4” (blocked)

To make a gauge swatch, work 17 Hdc Sts and then crochet rows 2-10 of the main body of the back panel. Your swatch will be larger than the required gauge. Measure 4×4” within that swatch to check gauge.

Finished Measurements

Sizes

XS(S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)

Notes

This cardigan is made in separate panels from the bottom up.

The Ch 1 and Ch 2 at the start of the rows do not count as a stitch.

The Ch 3 at the start of the row counts as 1 Double Crochet.

You can make your cardigan longer or shorter by adding or removing as rows in multiples of 2 on both the back panel and front panels. Take into account your yardage requirement will change.

You can make your sleeves longer or shorter by adding or removing rows in multiples of 2. Again, take into account your yardage requirement will change.

If you don’t want pockets on your cardigan, simply skip the Ch Sp and continue along the row with the regular stitch repeat.

The numbers in parenthesis at the beginning of the row are the row counts for all sizes. The numbers in parenthesis at the end of the rows are your stitch counts for all sizes. The numbers in parenthesis within the row are your instructions for all sizes.

Panel Instructions

Left and Right Panels

The Left and Right Panel are worked up the same, except for the placement of the pocket hole. Sizes M-5X the St count on either side of the pocket will be different for left vs right.

Stitches and Abbreviations (US Terms)

Ch(s) - Chain(s)

St(s) - Stitch(es)

Sc - Single Crochet

BLO - Back Loop Only

RS - Right Side

WS - Wrong Side

Hdc - Half Double Crochet

Tr - Treble Crochet

Dc - Double Crochet

Sk - Skip

Sl St - Slip Stitch

Fhdc - Foundation Half Double Crochet

SM - Stitch Marker

Pattern

Back Panel

Ch 11

Row 1: 1 Sc in the second Ch from the hook and each across, turn. (10 Sc)

Rows 2-68(74, 80, 86, 92, 98, 104, 110, 116): Ch 1, 1 Sc in first St, 1 Sc (BLO) in each St across until 1 remains, 1 Sc in last St, turn. (10 Sc)

Do not turn after the last row made. We will now be working Row 1 of the main body into the ends of the ribbing rows.

Row 1(WS): Ch 2 (does not count as a St here and throughout), 1 Hdc into the end of each row across, turn. (68(74, 80, 86, 92, 98, 104, 110, 116) Hdc)

Row 2(RS): Ch 3 (counts as 1 Dc here and throughout), *Sk the next 2 Sts, 1 Tr in following St, working your St behind the Tr, go back and work 1 Dc into the first skipped St, work 1 Dc into the second skipped St*, repeat from * to * across the row until 1 St remains, work 1 Dc in final St, turn. (68(74, 80, 86, 92, 98, 104, 110, 116) Sts)

Row 3: Ch 2, 1 Hdc in each St across (your last St made will be in the top of the Ch 3), turn. (68(74, 80, 86, 92, 98, 104, 110, 116) Hdc)

Rows 4-41(41, 43, 43, 45, 45, 47, 47, 49): Repeat Rows 2 & 3.

Fasten off.

Front Panel (Left panel when worn)

Ch 11

Row 1: 1 Sc in the second Ch from the hook and each across, turn. (10 Sc)

Rows 2-26(29, 32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50): Ch 1, 1 Sc in first St, 1 Sc (BLO) in each St across until 1 remains, 1 Sc in last St, turn. (10 Sc)

Do not turn after the last row made. We will now be working Row 1 of the main body into the ends of the ribbing rows.

Row 1(WS): Ch 2, 1 Hdc into the end of each row across, turn. (26(29, 32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50) Hdc)

Row 2(RS): Ch 3, *Sk the next 2 Sts, 1 Tr in following St, working your St behind the Tr, go back and work 1 Dc into the first skipped St, work 1 Dc into the second skipped St*, repeat from * to * across the row until 1 St remains, work 1 Dc in final St, turn. (26(29, 32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50) Sts)

Row 3: Ch 2, 1 Hdc in each St across, turn. (26(29, 32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50) Hdc)

Rows 4-12: Repeat Rows 2 & 3. You will end on a Row 2 Repeat.

We will now be creating the pocket hole in Row 13. If you don’t want pockets simply repeat Row 3 and continue with the Row 2 & 3 repeat for the remainder of the panel.

Row 13: Ch 2, 1 Hdc in first 3(3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) Sts, Ch 20(23, 23, 23, 23, 23, 23, 23, 23), Sk 20(23, 23, 23, 23, 23, 23, 23, 23) Sts, 1 Hdc in remaining 3(3, 6, 9, 12, 15, 18, 21, 24) Sts of the row, turn. (6(6, 9, 12, 15, 18, 21, 24, 27) Hdc)

Row 14: Repeat Row 2, treating the Chs from the pocket hole the same as you would a St, work your Sts directly into the Chs across the row in the normal St repeat. (26(29, 32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50) Sts)

Row 15: Repeat Row 3.

Rows 16-41(41, 43, 43, 45, 45, 47, 47, 49): Repeat Rows 2&3.

Fasten off, leave a long tail for seaming last row to back panel.

Front Panel (Right panel when worn)

The 2 front panels will be made exactly the same except for the pocket hole placement in Row 13.

Repeat Rows 1-12 of the Left front panel.

Row 13: Ch 2, 1 Hdc in first 3(3, 6, 9, 12, 15, 18, 21, 24) Sts, Ch 20(23, 23, 23, 23, 23, 23, 23, 23), Sk 20(23, 23, 23, 23, 23, 23, 23, 23) Sts, 1 Hdc in remaining 3(3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) Sts, turn. (6(6, 9, 12, 15, 18, 21, 24, 27) Hdc)

Repeat Rows 14-41(41, 43, 43, 45, 45, 47, 47, 49) of the Left front panel.

Fasten off, leave a long tail for seaming last row to back panel.

Sleeves (make 2)

Ch 11

Row 1: 1 Sc in the second Ch from the hook and each across, turn. (10 Sc)

Rows 2-22(25, 25, 27, 27, 28, 30, 31, 31): Ch 1, 1 Sc in first St, 1 Sc (BLO) in each St across until 1 remains, 1 Sc in last St, turn. (10 Sc)

Do not turn after the last row made. We will now be working Row 1 of the main body into the ends of the ribbing rows.

Row 1(WS): Ch 2, 2 Hdc into the end of each row across until 1 St remains, 2(2, 2, 1, 1, 2, 1, 2, 2) Hdc into last St, turn. (44(50, 50, 53, 53, 56, 59, 62, 62) Hdc)

Your sleeve is going to look wavy and crazy at this point. Don’t worry, that’s normal!

Row 2(RS): Ch 3, *Sk the next 2 Sts, 1 Tr in following St, working your St behind the Tr, go back and work 1 Dc into the first skipped St, work 1 Dc into the second skipped St*, repeat from * to * across the row until 1 St remains, work 1 Dc in final St, turn. (44(50, 50, 53, 53, 56, 59, 62, 62) Sts)

Row 3: Ch 2, 1 Hdc in each St across (your last St made will be in the top of the Ch 3), turn. (44(50, 50, 53, 53, 56, 59, 62, 62) Hdc)

Rows 4-35(33, 33, 31, 31, 29, 29, 29, 27): Repeat Rows 2 & 3.

Fasten off, leave a long tail for seaming last row to cardigan.

Adjustment Note

This is a drop-shoulder style cardigan. The wider the front/back panels are, the shorter the sleeve needs to be because they join further down your bicep. That’s why the smaller sizes have more rows than the larger. You can easily adjust your sleeve length by adding or taking away as many rows as needed.

Pocket Panels (make 2)

Row 1: 22(25, 25, 25, 25, 25, 25, 25, 25) Fhdc, turn. Alternatively you can Ch 2 more than the number listed above, work 1 Hdc into the 3rd Ch from the hook and across for a total of 22(25, 25, 25, 25, 25, 25, 25, 25) Hdc.

Rows 2-16: Ch 2, 1 Hdc in each St across, turn. (22(25, 25, 25, 25, 25, 25, 25, 25) Hdc)

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing all 4 sides of pocket to cardigan. The first row of your pocket should line up with Row 1 of the main body of the front panel and the last row should line up with Row 15. You can add or remove as many rows to this panel if you need to make adjustments.

Assembly

Block your panels to the measurements listed above. I recommend a steam block.

Place your front and back panels together RS facing.

Using your preferred seaming method, attach the front panels to the back panel at the shoulders (I used a needle and did the mattress stitch across). Be sure your panels are aligned and that you aren’t bunching or skipping stitches.

Next, using the same joining process as above, we will be attaching the sleeves to the cardigan. Make sure the center of the sleeve is aligned with the shoulder seam. Be sure to check that your sleeves are even on both the front and back panel as you go. It is helpful to use SMs here to keep your sleeve in place as you join.

Finally, fold your cardigan so that the back and front panels are on top of each other, RS facing. Seam from the cuffs to the underarm and down the side of the cardigan.

Sew Pockets

Now, you will be sewing your pockets to the inside of the front panels using a sewing needle. Place your pocket on the WS (inside) of the cardigan. Line it up so that the top of the pocket is aligned with Row 15. You will be sewing the top of the pocket to that row. The bottom of the pocket panel should line up with the top of the ribbing at Row 1 of the front panel. I recommend pinning your pocket in place. With your needle, sew all 4 sides. Make sure you don’t stick your needle all the way through to the front so that the seam is not visible on the outside. Don’t tug your stitches too tight. Be sure to view the video tutorial if you need a visual on how to sew the pocket. Tie off and repeat on other side.

Ribbed Trim

We are going to be working the ribbing directly off of the sweater. When you are slip stitching to the sides of the front panels you don’t have an actual stitch to work into (besides the first 10 Sts of the front panel ribbing), instead, you will be slip stitching into the sides of the rows. Use your best judgment on where to place your hook. Too many rows made will cause your trim to be wavy so pay close attention to placement as you go. I have approximately 6-7 ribbing rows per every 2”

With your cardigan RS out, join yarn with a Sl St to the bottom inner corner of the left front panel (right panel when worn).

Ch 5

Row 1: Work 1 Sc into the second Ch from the hook and each Ch across back towards the sweater for a total of 4 Sc. Sl St 1 time to the next unworked Sp of the front panel, turn. (4 Sc)

Row 2: (do not start with a Ch) 1 Sc (BLO) in first 3 Sts, 1 Sc in last, turn. (4 Sc)

Row 3: Ch 1, 1 Sc in first St, 1 Sc (BLO) in next 3 Sts, 1 Sl St into the next unworked SP of the sweater, then work 1 more Sl St into the next Sp after that, turn. (4 Sc, 2 Sl St)

Repeat Rows 2&3 all the way up the first side of the cardigan. When you reach the back neckline continue repeating Rows 2 & 3 by working your Sl Sts into the Hdc Sts of the back panel. When you reach the next front panel, continue the same process all the way down to the bottom corner.

Fasten off, weave in any remaining ends.