​Amigurumi Yoda Doll

You'll need:

Red Heart Super Saver (or other worsted weight yarn) in Frosty Green, Cafe Latte, and Aran;

Crochet hooks G (4.0) and H (5.0);

Stitch marker;

Tapestry needle;

Pair of safety eyes (somewhere around 24mm is good);

Toy stuffing.

Instructions

Special Stitches and Techniques

Invisible Decrease (Sc2tog): Insert the hook in front loop only of first st, insert hook in front loop only of second st (3 loops on hook), yo and draw through 2 loops, yo and complete sc as normal.

Bobble Stitch (Dc8tog): This is an 8 dc bobble stitch worked over 2 stitches.

Step 1: Yo, insert hook into next st and draw up a loop, yo and draw through two loops on the hook. (2 loops)

Step 2: Yo, insert hook into same st and draw up another loop, yo and draw through the first two loops on the hook. (3 loops)

Step 3: Yo, insert hook into same st and draw up another loop, yo and draw through the first two loops on the hook. (4 loops)

Step 4: Yo, insert hook into same st and draw up another loop, yo and draw through the first two loops on the hook. (5 loops)

Step 5: Yo, insert hook into the next st and draw up another loop, yo and draw through the first two loops on the hook. (6 loops)

Step 6: Yo, insert hook into the next st and draw up another loop, yo and draw through the first two loops on the hook. (7 loops)

Step 7: Yo, insert hook into the next st and draw up another loop, yo and draw through the first two loops on the hook. (8 loops)

Step 8: Yo, insert hook into the next st and draw up another loop, yo and draw through the first two loops on the hook. (9 loops)

Step 9: Yo and pull through all loops on hook. (This will give you 1 stitch) Then, yo again and pull through to close the stitch. (This is like an extra slip stitch that will give you a second stitch per bobble to work on the next round.)

Baby Yoda Pattern

The pattern is worked in continuous spirals (without joining the rounds) from the feet up. You will need a stitch marker to keep track of where the beginning of each round starts; move the marker up to the first stitch of the next round after finishing the previous one.

Make two legs, and then join them together to make the body. Continue to the head. Make two arms, and join them to the body. Make two ears, and join them to the head.

Feet and Legs

Rnd 1: With green yarn and size G hook, make a magic circle, work 6sc (6sts)

Rnd 2: Work 2sc in each st around (12sts)

Rnd 3: *Sc in next st, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around (18sts)

Rnd 4: *Sc in each of next 2 sts, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around (24sts)

Rnd 5: Sc blo in each of the next 8 sts, work dc8tog bobble over the next two sts in the back loops, 1sc blo, dc8tog bobble over the next two sts in the back loops, 1sc blo, dc8tog bobble over the next two sts in the back loops, 8sc blo (24sts) If this part is confusing, first of all, look at the stitch description a couple paragraphs up, especially step 9.

Rnds 6-7: Sc in each st around (24sts)

Rnd 8: Sc in each of the next 8 sts, sc2tog 4 times, sc in each of the remaining 8 sts (20sts)

Rnd 9: Sc in each of the next 8 sts, sc2tog 2 times, sc in each of the remaining 8 sts (18sts)

Rnd 10-14: Sc in each st around (18sts) Fasten off the first leg, keep a marker in the last stitch of the round for later. Do not fasten off the second leg. Stuff the feet, and leave the legs unstuffed for now, until you join them in the next step.

Join the Legs

Rnd 15: On the second leg, work 6 sc, then ch 2. Place the first leg next to the second so that both feet are facing the same way, and a little turned out. Then sc into the last st of Rnd 14 on the first leg. Continue with 17 sc around the first leg, sc in each of the ch, and continue with 12 sc around the remaining sts on the second leg. (40sts)

Rnd 16: Sc in each st around (40sts).

Body

Remember to stuff the body firmly as you go.

Rnd 17: Sc in the next 6 sts, 2sc in each of the 2 ch, sc in the remaining 32 sts (42)

Rnd 18: Sc in each of the next 20 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 18 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 2 sts (44)

Rnd 19: Sc in each of the next 9 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 10 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 10 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 10 sts, 2sc in next st, sc (48)

Rnd 20: Sc in each of the next 9 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 11 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 11 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 11 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 2 (52)

Rnd 21-22: Sc in each st around (52)

Rnd 23: Sc in each of the next 10 sts, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 11 sts, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 11 sts, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 11 sts, sc2tog, sc (48)

Rnd 24: *Sc in each of the next 10 sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (44)

Rnd 25: *Sc in each of the next 9 sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (40)

Rnd 26: Sc in each st around (40)

Rnd 27: *Sc in each of the next 8 sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (36)

Rnd 28: *Sc in each of the next 7 sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (32)

Rnd 29: Sc in each st around (32)

Rnd 30: *Sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (28)

Rnd 31: *Sc in each of the next 5 sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (24)

Rnd 32: *Sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (20)

Rnd 33: Sc in each st around (20)

Head

Rnd 34: Sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 6 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 6 sts, 2sc in next st (24)

Rnd 35: * 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 3 sts, repeat from * around (30)

Rnd 36: * 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 4 sts, repeat from * around (36)

Rnd 37: * 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 5 sts, repeat from * around (42)

Rnd 38: * 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 6 sts, repeat from * around (48)

Rnd 39: * 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 7 sts, repeat from * around (54)

Rnd 40: * 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 8 sts, repeat from * around (60)

Rnd 41: * 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 9 sts, repeat from * around (66)

Rnd 42-43: Sc in each st around (66)

Rnd 44: * Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 9 sts, repeat from * around (60)

Rnd 45: * Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 8 sts, repeat from * around (54)

Rnd 46-47: Sc in each st around (54)

Rnd 48: * 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 8 sts, repeat from * around (60)

Rnd 49: Sc in each st around (60)

At this point, you may want to attach the safety eyes, if using. Make sure to do the eyes before the hole gets too small, and stuff tightly as you go.

Put the eyes around rows 44-45, and placed them about 11-12 stitches apart. Try and see if that looks good to you because the placement will vary a bit depending on the size eyes you buy and how tightly you’ve stuffed the doll.

Important! Crochet fabric stretches, and even large safety eyes can be pulled out with heavy use. If you are making this plush toy for a child, use an almond-shaped piece of black or dark brown felt instead!

Rnd 50: * Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 8 sts, repeat from * around (54)

Rnd 51: * Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 7 sts, repeat from * around (48)

Rnd 52: * Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 6 sts, repeat from * around (42)

Rnd 53: * Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 5 sts, repeat from * around (36)

Rnd 54: * Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 4 sts, repeat from * around (30)

Rnd 55: * Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 3 sts, repeat from * around (24)

Rnd 56: * Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 2 sts, repeat from * around (18)

Rnd 57: * Sc2tog, sc in next st, repeat from * around (12)

Rnd 58: Sc2tog in each st around (6) Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use a blunt-tipped tapestry needle to weave yarn through the remaining stitches, and pull tight to close the hole.

Arms

Make 2, working in continuous spiral rounds. Leave a long yarn tail at the beginning to sew the arm to the body. Stuff the arm and fingers as you go. Use less stuffing in the shoulder area less so it will be easier to attach to the body.

Rnd 1: Ch 6. Sl st to join into a circle (6)

Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12)

Rnd 3-7: Sc in each st around (12)

Rnd 8: 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 11 sts (13)

Rnd 9: Sc in each st around (13)

Rnd 10: 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 12 sts (14)

Rnd 11: Sc in each st around (14)

Rnd 12: * 2sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc in each of the next 5 sts, repeat from * around (18)

Rnd 13: Sc in each st around (18)

Divide for the three fingers.

Rnd 14: Sc in each of the next 6 sts, leave the remaining stitches unworked. (6)

Rnd 15: Sc in first st of Rnd 14 and each of the next 5 sts (6)

Rnd 16: Sc2tog around (3 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long enough yarn tail to sew tip of finger closed. Continue making the second and third finger.

Second Finger

Rnd 14: Join yarn, sc in the 7th st of Rnd 13, sc in each of the next 2 sts, skip next 6 sts, sc in each of the next 3 sts (6)

Rnd 15: Sc in first st of Rnd 14 and each st around (6)

Rnd 16: Sc2tog around (3 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long enough yarn tail to sew tip of finger closed. Continue making the third finger.

Third Finger

Rnd 14: Join yarn, sc in the 10th st of Rnd 13, sc in each of the next 5 sts (6)

Rnd 15: Sc in first st of Rnd 14 and each st around (6) Finish stuffing the fingers.

Rnd 16: Sc2tog around (3 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long enough yarn tail to sew tip of finger closed.

Shoulder Seam

With yarn tail, or a new piece of yarn, use a blunt tapestry needle to sew the shoulder opening of the arm to the body. I used a simple whip stitch and made the seam 2 rows down from the beginning of the head increases.

Ears

Make two, working in continuous spiral rounds. Leave a long yarn tail at the end to sew the arm to the body.

Rnd 1: Make a magic circle, work 3 sc. Pull closed. (3 sts)

Rnd 2: 2sc into each st (6)

Rnd 3: Sc in each st around (6)

Rnd 4: * 2sc in next st, sc in next st, rep from * around (9)

Rnd 5: Sc in each st around (9)

Rnd 6: * 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 2 sts, rep from * around (12)

Rnd 7: Sc in each st around (12)

Rnd 8: * 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 3 sts, rep from * around (15)

Rnd 9: Sc in each st around (15)

Rnd 10: * 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 4 sts, rep from * around (18)

Rnd 11: Sc in each st around (18)

Rnd 12: * 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 5 sts, rep from * around (21)

Rnd 13: Sc in each st around (21)

Rnd 14: * 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 6 sts, rep from * around (24)

Rnd 15: Sc in each st around (24)

Rnd 16: * 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 7 sts, rep from * around (27)

Rnd 17-22: Sc in each st around (27)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Sew on the ears.

Flatten the ears, do not stuff. Fold over one of the long sides of the ear about an inch to create the folded top shape before sewing.

Line up the ears with the sides of the head, and sew on to the head with a blunt tapestry needle. I worked around both sides of the ear with a whip stitch. Be careful to catch all the layers of the folded part when you’re sewing. Weave in the ends.

Robe

The robe, or coat, is worked back and forth in rows. I call for 3 ch for the turning ch, but you can adjust to use 2 if that’s what you prefer for double crochet.

Row 1: With brown yarn and size H hook (5.0mm), chain 53. Dc into 4th ch from hook and next 49 chs (50)

Row 2-9: Ch 3, turn, dc into each st (50 sts)

Row 10: Ch 3, turn, dc into each of the next 14 sts, dc2tog, dc into each of the next 8 sts, dc2tog, dc into each of the next 8 sts, dc2tog, dc into each of the next 14 sts (47)

Row 11: Ch 3, turn, dc into each of the next 14 sts, dc2tog, dc into each of the next 15 sts, dc2tog, dc into each of the next 14 sts (45)

Make the armholes

Row 12: Ch 3, turn, dc into each of the next 12 sts, chain 8, skip the next 4 sts, dc into each of the next 13 sts, chain 8, skip the next 4 sts, dc into each of the next 12 sts (53)

Row 13: Ch 1, turn, sc into each of the next 10 sts, sc2tog, sc into each of the next 8 ch sts, sc2tog, sc into each of the next 9 sts, sc2tog, sc into each of the next 8 ch sts, sc2tog, sc into each of the next 10 sts. (49) Fasten off brown yarn.

Make the collar.

Row 14: Join cream yarn with a dc in the last st of row 13. Dc in each st across (49)

Row 15-17: Ch 3, turn, dc into each st across (49) Fasten off and weave in ends.

Make the sleeves. The sleeves are worked in joined rows. Make 1 in each armhole.

Rnd 1: Join brown yarn at the armhole opening of the robe make in Row 12. Sc 14 sts evenly around. Sl st to join.

Rnd 2-4: Chain 3 (counts as first dc), dc in each st around (14) At the end of rnd 4, fasten off.

Rnd 5: Join cream yarn, 2 dc in first st, and dc in each of the next 13 st around (15) Fasten off and weave in ends.

Repeat for the other sleeve.

Face Details

The general idea is that I’m making short lengths of chain stitches and sewing them on to create the face details.

You can see in the (admittedly very creepy) picture above that I’m working with 20 mm safety eyes backed with an almond-shaped piece of dark brown felt. I added the felt because I thought the 20 mm eyes were a bit too small, and I wanted to get a better shape. You can add it or omit it based on what size eyes you can find.

For the eyelids, make 2

With green yarn and size G hook, ch 19. Leave a long yarn tail. Use a blunt tapestry needle to use to sew the length of chain stitches around the eye to create both the upper and lower eyelids. Weave in the ends.

For the eyebrows, make 2

Ch 13, work sc in the second ch from the hook and in each of the remaining 11 sts (12) If you prefer you could also make 12 foundation sc sts and use those.

Leave a long yarn tail. Use a blunt tapestry needle to use to sew the length of stitches around the top and outside corner of the eye to create eyebrows.

For the nose

With green yarn and size G hook, ch 3. Work a 6dc bobble stitch in the second and third chains from the hook. (Work 3/6 in the second chain, and 3/6 in the third chain) After you yo and pull through all loops on hook, yo again and pull through to close and tighten the stitch. Use a long yarn tail to sew the nose onto the face

For the mouth

For the top lip, ch 8. For a bottom lip, ch 6. I went back and forth on whether I even wanted a bottom lip, but you can decide if you like it or not.