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Crochet Scandinavian Christmas Gnome
The Crochet Scandinavian Christmas Gnome is a delightful holiday craft project that brings a touch of Nordic charm to your home. With its whimsical design and classic red and white color scheme, this adorable gnome is sure to add a festive spirit to your Christmas decor. Crocheting this charming little guy can be a fun and relaxing way to get into the holiday spirit, whether you're an experienced crocheter or just starting out. From his pointy hat to his fuzzy beard, each stitch adds to the gnome's enchanting personality. Display him on your mantel, bookshelf, or as a cute addition to your holiday table setting. Creating this Crochet Scandinavian Christmas Gnome is not only a creative outlet but also a heartwarming way to spread joy and cheer during the holiday season.
You will need:
Yarn needle
Soft toy filling
Weighted beads – Approx. 25g (optional)
3mm crochet hook (This pattern can be made with any size yarn and hook. I recommend using a hook 1 size smaller than suggested on the yarn)
DK Yarn – Approx. 125m
Stitches and abbreviations used: (US terminology)
MR - Magic ring
Ch - Chain
SC - Single Crochet
Inc - Increase Stitch (2 single crochets into one stitch)
Dec - Decrease Stitch (single crochet 2 stitches together)
Fur stitch/loop stitch - Insert hook into stitch, wrap a loop of yarn around the finger that is holding the working yarn, yo and pull through leaving that loop on your finger. Complete the sc by yarning over and pulling through the 2 loops on the hook as normal.
BLO – Back Loop Only
YO – Yarn Over
ST - Stitch
SLST - Slip Stitch
FO - Finish Off
Other things to note....
Most of this pattern is worked in continuous rounds. It is helpful to use a stitch marker to keep track.
The number in ( ) at the end of each round indicates the total stitch count for that round.
* * indicates repeated series of stitches.
Use invisible decreases for a neater finished product. This is done by using the FLO of the stitches while making the decrease.
Use invisible decreases for a neater finished product. This is done by using the FLO of Changing colour - complete the stitch before the colour change by working the last yarn over of the stitch with the new colour.
Stitches in [ ] are worked into one stitch.
Remember to stuff the product little and often as you work.
Body - Red
1.
6sc into MR (6)
2.
*Inc* x6 (12)
3.
*1sc, inc* x6 (18)
4.
*2sc, inc* x6 (24)
5.
*3sc, inc* x6 (30)
6.
*4sc, inc* x6 (36)
7.
*5sc, inc* x6 (42)
8.
*6sc, inc* x6 (48)
9.
BLO- sc (48)
10-24.
Sc (48) – 15 rounds
25.
*6sc, dec* x6 (42) – place weighted beans at the base.
26-30.
Sc (42) – 5 rounds
31.
*5sc, dec* x6 (36) - Stuff the piece and continue stuffing until closed.
32.
Sc (36)
33.
*4sc, dec* x6 (30)
34.
*3sc, dec* x6 (24)
35.
*2sc, dec* x6 (18)
36.
*1sc, dec* x6 (12)
37.
*dec* x6 (6)
FO – Close hole.
Beard – White
The loop stitches should be approx. 8cm long.
1.
CH 13
2.
Turn, starting in 2nd ch from hook, loop stitch - 12sc (12)
3.
Ch1, turn, inc, 10sc, inc (14)
4.
Ch1, turn, loop stitch – 14sc (14)
FO – Leaving yarn tail to sew to body at approx. round 27 with the row 4 being the top row of the beard.
Cut the loops and then cut the beard into a triangle shape so it is tapered towards the middle, longest point. Then brush the yarn. The beard may need to be cut and shaped more once it has been brushed.
Nose – Cream
1.
6sc into MR (6)
2.
*Inc* x6 (12)
3.
Sc (12)
4.
*dec* x6 (6) - Stuff
FO – Close hole leaving yarn tail to sew to the centre top of the beard.
Hat – Red
1.
4sc into MR (4)
2.
*inc* x4 (8)
3.
sc (8)
4.
*3sc, inc* x2 (10)
5.
Sc (10)
6.
*4sc, inc* x2 (12)
7.
Sc (12)
8.
5sc, inc* x2 (14)
9.
Sc (14)
10.
*6sc, inc* x2 (16)
11.
Sc (16)
12.
*7sc, inc* x2 (18)
13.
Sc (18)
14.
*8sc, inc* x2 (20)
15.
Sc (20)
16.
*9sc, inc* x2 (22)
17.
Sc (22)
18.
*10sc, inc* x2 (24)
19.
Sc (24)
20.
*11sc, inc* x2 (26)
21.
Sc (26)
22.
*12sc, inc* x2 (28)
23.
Sc (28)
24.
*13sc, inc* x2 (30)
25.
Sc (30)
26.
*14sc, inc* x2 (32)
27.
Sc (32)
28.
*15sc, inc* x2 (34)
29.
Sc (34)
30.
*16sc, inc* x2 (36)
31.
*17sc, inc* x2 (38)
32.
*18sc, inc* x2 (40)
33.
*19sc, inc* x2 (42)
34.
*20sc, inc* x2 (44)
35.
*21sc, inc* x2 (46)
36.
*22sc, inc* x2 (48)
37.
*23sc, inc* x2 (50)
38.
*24sc, inc* x2 (52)
39-40.
Sc (52) – 2 rounds
FO – Leaving yarn tail to sew to head.
Legs x2 – Starting in Black
1.
CH 7.
2.
1sc in the 3rd chain from the hook, 1sc into the next 3 chains, 3sc into the last chain, 1sc into the back of each 4 chains, 3sc into the space between the skipped chains 1 and 2. (14)
3.
4sc, inc x3, 4sc, inc x3 (20)
4.
4sc, *1sc, inc *x3, 4sc, *1sc, inc *x3 (26)
5.
BLO – sc (26)
6.
Sc (26)
7.
*1sc, dec * x6, 8sc (20)
8.
*1sc, dec * x4, 8sc (16)
9.
*dec, 1sc * x4, 4sc (12)
10.
Sc (12)
11-12.
White – sc (12)
13-14.
Red – sc (12)
15-16.
White – sc (12) – Stuff black foot section firmly leaving the rest unstuffed.
17-18.
Red – sc (12)
19-20.
White – sc (12)
21-22.
Red – sc (12)
23-24.
White – sc (12)
25-26.
Red – sc (12)
27-28.
White – sc (12)
29-30.
Red – sc (12)
31.
Flatten piece – 6sc through both sides to close flat.
FO – Leaving yarn tail to sew to the bottom of the body.
Arms x2 – Starting in Cream
1. 6sc into MR (6)
2. *Inc* x6 (12)
3. Sc (12)
4. *dec, 4sc* x2 (10)
5. Sc (10)
6 - 15. Change to red - Sc (10) – 10 rounds - Stuff hand section firmly and arm section lightly.
16. Flatten piece – 5sc through both sides to close flat.
FO – Leaving yarn tail to sew to either side of the body just below the hat.
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