Relief Sleeves Knit Jumper
You'll need:
500; 550; 600; 650 g of yarn (75% wool, 25% silk; 200m/50g);
Straight knitting needles 4,5;
Circle knitting needles 4,5 with fishing line 40 cm.
Size: XS, S, M, L.
Used Patterns
2 x 2 rib;
Stockinette stitch: in right-side rows - knit sts, in wrong-side rows - purls, in circle rows - only knit sts;
Wrong side: in right-side rows - purls, in wrong-side rows - knit sts, in circle rows - only purls;
Cable: due to the scheme A.
Horizontal pattern repeat – 18 sts, vertical pattern repeat – 38 rows.
Relief pattern: due to the scheme B; finish the row with sts before pattern repeat, pattern repeat, finish with sts after pattern repeat. Horizontal pattern repeat – 17 sts, vertical pattern repeat – 8 rows.
Stitches control with knitting needles 4,5 in 2 threads of yarn: stockinette stitch and wrong-side - 17, 5 sts x 29 rows = 10 x 10 cm;
Cable: 18 sts x 8 cm = 10 x 10 cm;
Relief pattern: 25,5 sts x 26,5 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
Instructions
Back
Cast on 82; 86; 90; 94 sts with 2 threads yarn, knit 5 cm (= 16 rows) of placket with rib. Start the row with 1 selvedge st and 1 knit st, finish - in reflection.
Then, allocate the sts the following way: 1 selvedge st, 4; 6; 8; 10 sts of wrong side, 18 sts of cable, 3 sts of wrong side, 30 sts of stockinette stitch, 3 sts of wrong side, 18 sts of cable, 4; 6; 8; 10 sts of wrong side, 1 selvedge st.
Starting from 19; 19; 19; 21 row of placket increase from both sides due to the needed size:
in 18th row 1 x 1 st and in every 16th row 6 x 1 st;
in every 18th row 4 x 1 st and in every 16th row 3 x 1 st;
in every 18th row 7 x 1 st;
in 18th row 1 x 1 st, in 20th row 1 x 1 st and in every 18th row 6 x 1 st.
You should get 98; 102; 106; 110 sts in work. Make increased sts as wrong side.
At 51; 53; 55; 57 cm (= 148; 154; 160; 166 rows) from the placket bind off 1 x 11; 11; 13; 13 sts from both sides for shoulders and then in paired rows 2 x 11; 12; 12; 13 sts.
At the level of decreases for shoulders, bind off the central 32 sts for the neck-hole. Finish each part separately.
Front
Make in the same way, as back, but with deeper neck-hole. For this, bind off the central 12 sts at 45; 47; 49; 51 cm height (= 130; 136; 142; 148 rows).
For smooth rounding, bind off 1 x 3 sts, 2 x 22 sts, 3 x 1 st in the even rows along the inner side of neck-hole.
Sleeves
Cast on 43; 60; 60; 77 sts in 2 threads of yarn and knit 1 wrong side row of knit sts.
Tirn to the relief pattern, make 48 rows.
Then, knit the detail with stockinette stitch, increasing 1 st from both sides in the 1st row. There are 45; 62; 62; 79 sts in work.
For widening (except 48th row) increase 1 st (measure due to the stockinette stitch) in 15; 39; 21 rows from both sides, then 3 x 1 st in every 14th row, 3 x 1 st in every 12th row, 1 x 1 st in every 36th row, 3 x 1 st in every 20th row, 1 x 1 st in every 18th row. Totaly, 59; 66; 72; 79 sts.
At 36; 38; 40; 42 cm height (= 110; 116; 122 rows) of stockinette stitch, bind off the sts.
Assembly
Make shoulder seams.
Lift 84 sts along the neck-hole with circle knitting needles and knit 2,5 cm (= 6 rows) of rib. Bind off the sts.
Sew the sleeves, make sleeve and side seams.