Valentines Crochet Slippers
You’ll need:
2 skeins of Red Heart Lisa yarn in Red (color A) and small amount of White (color B);
Crochet hook 4,5 mm;
Stitch markers;
Tapestry needle;
Scissors.
Size: The slippers have a lot of stretch in length! Without stretching the slippers measure 24.5 cm in length; slipper circumference around the foot 23 cm.
For larger sizes work more rounds and rows.
For wider and longer slippers, you could try using a thicker yarn and larger hook size.
Stitches control: 16 fpdc x 15 rounds = 10 x 10 cm.
How to change colors
Work the last st before changing colors till half, having 2 loops on hook, pick new color yarn and end the stitch, pulling the new color yarn through the 2 loops on hook.
Do not not cut yarns when changing colors, you can choose to work around the yarn not in use, or you can carry the unworked yarns across the back. Keep the tension of the strands not in use a little loose, to maintain elasticity.
Instructions
Work rounds 1- 5 the same for both left and right slippers!
Start with a magic ring.
Round 1: ch1, work 11 hdc into ring, join with sl st to top of first hdc. (11 sts)
Round 2: ch2, (1 dc into top of next st, 1fpdc around the same st as the dc just made), repeat around, join with sl st to top of first st. (22 sts)
Round 3: ch2, 1fpdc around each of next 4 sts, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around next st, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around each of next 8 sts, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around next st, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around each of next 4 sts; join with sl st to top of first fpdc. (26 sts)
Round 4: ch2, 1fpdc around each of next 5 sts, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around next st, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around each of next 10 sts, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around next st, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around each of next 5 sts; join with sl st to top of first fpdc. (30 sts)
Round 5: ch2, 1fpdc around each of next 6 sts, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around next st, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around each of next 12 sts, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around next st, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around each of next 6 sts; join with sl st to top of first fpdc. (34 sts)
Heart Pattern
Because the heart has an uneven number of stitches and the slippers have an even number of sts in a round, the heart is not quite centered. One st is off. (You have 1st more in main color on one side as on the other side of the heart.)
Note: Work rounds 6 - 13 as written in the pattern for the Left Foot with changes in parentheses for the Right Foot.
Round 6: ch2, with A 1fpdc in each of next 16 (17)sts, changing to B at last st, with B 1fpdc around next stitch changing to A when the st it's made till half; continue with A and work 1fpdc around each of next 17 (16) sts, sl st to top of first fpdc.
Round 7: With A ch2, work 1fpdc around each of next 15 (16) sts, changing to B at last st; with B 1fpdc around each of next 3 sts changing to A at last st, continue with A and work 1fpdc around each of next 16 (15)sts, sl st to top of first fpdc.
Round 8: With A ch2, work 1fpdc around each of next 14 (15)sts, changing to B at last st; with B 1fpdc around each of next 5 sts changing to A at last st, continue with A and work 1fpdc around each of next 15(14)sts, sl st to top of first fpdc.
Round 9: With A ch2, work 1fpdc around each of next 13 (14)sts, changing to B at last st; with B 1fpdc around each of next 7 sts changing to A at last st, continue with A and work 1fpdc around each of next 14 (13)sts, sl st to top of first fpdc.
Rounds 10-11: With A ch2, work 1 fpdc around each of next 12 (13)sts, changing to B at last st; with B 1 fpdc around each of next 9 sts changing to A at last st, continue with A and work 1 fpdc around each of next 13 (12) sts, sl st to top of first fpdc.
Round 12: With A work 1 fpdc around each of next 12 (13)sts, changing to B at last st; with B 1 fpdc around each of next 4 sts changing to A at last st, with A work 1 fpdc till half, change to B and finish the st with B; continues with B, work 1 fpdc around each of next 4 sts changing to A at last st, with A work 1 fpdc around each of next 13 (12) sts, sl st to top of first fpdc.
Round 13: With A ch2, work 1 fpdc around each of next 13 (14) sts, changing to B at last st; with B 1 fpdc around each of next 2 sts changing to A at last st, with A work 1 fpdc around each of next 3 sts, change to B at last st, with B 1 fpdc around each of next 2 sts changing to A at last st, with A work 1 fpdc around each of next 14 (13) sts, sl st to top of first fpdc. Cut yarn B.
Rounds 14: With A work 34 fpdc around, sl st to top of first fpdc.
Rounds 15-18: Repeat as round 14.
Note: It will be much easier to count the rounds/ rows on the wrong side. Count the ridges on the wrong side and write down to make the same for the second slipper. ( At the end of round 18 you will have 17 ridges on the wrong side.)
For larger slippers, continue until the desired length.
Cut yarn. Fasten off.
Start working in rows!
Note: ch 2 at beg of rows will count from now on as a hdc.
Left Foot
Holding the piece with the back seam facing you count 14 sts from the back seam to the right, place a stitch marker into 14th st and a second stitch marker into the 22th st.
Right foot: Holding the piece with the back seam facing you count 13 sts from the back seam to the right, place a stitch marker into 13th st and a second stitch marker into the 21th st.
For both slippers you will have the stitch markers placed right above the heart.
Next: For both slippers: Join yarn with a standing hdc into the first marked st. Continue to work row 1 below.
Row 1 Left Foot(RS): work 1 fpdc around each of next 13 sts, sk the joining seam below and work 1 fpdc around each of next 12 sts, 1 hdc into 2nd marked st, turn. (27 sts)
Row 1 Right Foot(RS): work 1 fpdc around each of next 12 sts, sk the joining seam below and work 1 fpdc around each of next 13 sts, 1 hdc into 2nd marked st, turn. (27 sts)
From here worked the same for both slippers!
Row 2 (WS): ch2, (count as hdc), 1 bpdc around each of next 25 sts, 1 hdc in top of standing hdc of previous round, turn. (27 sts)
Row 3 (RS): ch2, (count as hdc), 1 fpdc around each of next 25 sts, 1 hdc in top of ch2, turn. (27 sts)
Row 4 (WS): ch2, (count as hdc), 1 bpdc around each of next 25 sts, 1 hdc in top of ch2, turn.(27 sts)
Rows 5-11: Repeat as rows 3-4. (After finishing row 11 you will have 10 ridges, counted from where you began working in rows). (For larger size, continue until you reach the desired length.)
Row 12 (WS): decrease row (you will decrease 2 sts) : ch2, 1 bpdc around each of next 10 sts, bpdc2tog inv, 1 bpdc around next st, bpdc2tog inv, 1 bpdc around each of next 10 sts, 1 hdc in top of ch2. (25 sts)
Last Row: ch2, 1fpdc around each of next 23 sts, 1 hdc in top of ch2. (25 sts).
Joining the Sides at the Heel
Turn piece on the wrong side.
Ch1, join at heel the sides together by slip stitching through both top loops of each side.
Don't fasten off! Slip stitch back to top. Ch 1 and turn piece on the right side again.
Continue to work the cuff around the foot opening.
Cuff
Round 1: Work 34 or 36 hdc evenly spaced around the foot opening, sl st to top of first st.
For a larger opening work more sts, but the total number should be a multiple of 2!
Round 2: ch3, sk 1 st, *1 fpdc around next st, ch1, sk 1 st*, repeat around from * to *, sl st with B to top of first fpdc.
Round 3: with B ch2, 1 fpdc around first skipped hdc 2 rounds below, ch1, sk next fpdc, *1 fpdc around next skipped hdc 2 rounds below, ch1, sk next fpdc*, repeat from * to * around, sl st with A to top of first fpdc.
Round 4: with A ch2, 1fpdc around first skipped fpdc 2 rounds below, ch1, sk next fpdc, *1 fpdc around next skipped fpdc 2 rounds below, ch1, sk next fpdc*, repeat from * to * around, at the last repeat don't ch 1 anymore before slip stitching to top of first fpdc.
Cut yarn. Fasten off. Weave in the ends.