Crochet Ruffle Raglan Sweater

Leyla

2025-03-24 09:14:08

The Crochet Ruffle Raglan Sweater is an absolute delight to work on! This charming sweater pattern combines the vintage charm of ruffles with the timeless style of raglan sleeves, making it a unique and fun project for any crocheter. Whether you're a seasoned pro or just starting out, this design offers a lovely challenge while still being beginner-friendly. The cascading ruffles add a touch of whimsy, making it perfect for both casual outings and cozy nights in. With a warm color palette and soft yarn, you'll be snuggled up in your handmade masterpiece in no time!

Materials

YARN: New Arezzo / 47% bamboo, 33% linen, 20% cotton / fine

Size XS/S: 600 g / 21.5 oz, 1800 m / 1968 yds

Size M/L: 750 g / 26.5 oz, 2250 m / 2461 yds

Size XL: 850 g / 30 oz, 2550 m / 2789 yds

Size 2XL: 900 g/ 32 oz, 2700 m / 2953 yds

Hook: 4 mm

Yarn Needle, Scissors, Measuring Tape, Stitch Markers

Size Chart

XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL

Chest/Bust (in cm): 73.5, 83.5, 94, 104, 114.5, 125

Back Waist Length (in cm): 42, 43, 43.5, 44.5, 45, 45.5

Cross Back (shoulder to shoulder) (in cm): 36.5, 37.5, 40, 42.5, 44.5, 45.5

Armhole Depth (in cm): 16, 17, 18.5, 19.5, 21, 22.5

Waist (in cm): 60, 65, 73, 84, 94, 104

Stitch Key (US terminology)

ch = chain

yo = yarn over

st = stitch

sts = stitches

sl st = slip stitch

sl sts = slip stitches

dc = double crochet

2 dc = two double crochet stitches in one stitch

4 dc = four double crochet stitches in one stitch

fpdc = front post double crochet

2 fpdc = 2 front post double crochet stitches in one stitch

4 fpdc = 4 front post double crochet stitches in one stitch

fpdc 2 = front post double crochet in next two stitches

fpdc2tog = front post double crochet two stitches together

fpdc3tog = front post double crochet three stitches together

fdc = foundation double crochet

sp = space

Specialty Stitch & Technique Key

Invisible join: pull the loop on the hook a little longer, remove the loop from the hook, insert the hook in the 2nd st from the back, take the loop through that st. Now continue on to the next round.

Notes

Foundation chain counts as row 1

You will start working around the neck in joined rounds (it’s a raglan style sweater, one piece, no sewing), leaving the holes for the sleeves/armholes, working on the body and finishing with the sleeves.

It’s crocheted from top to bottom.

You can make the sweater longer. Instructions are in the pattern in the section for body.

You can make the sleeves longer. Instructions are in the pattern in the section for the sleeves.

Ch 2 doesn’t count as a stitch.

Instructions

Fdc 103

Invisible join: with this join you will make 104th dc.

1. Yo, insert hook in the foundation chain, yo and pull through, insert hook in the very 1st foundation chain, yo and pull through both chains (you just made a sl st).

2. Now you just need to finish the last dc: yo and pull through 2 loops, yo and pull through 2 loops.

3. Now you need to join the upper part of the chain with invisible join: pull the loop on the hook a little longer, remove the loop from the hook, insert the hook in the 2nd st from the back, take the loop through that st. Now continue onto round 2.

For round 2 you will first place stitch markers in the corner stitches:

Place the 1st stitch marker in 14th

2nd stitch marker in 26th,

3rd stitch marker in the 26th and

4th stitch marker in the 26th. (The long loop that you made with invisible join also counts as a stitch)

Round 2: ch 2, 2 dc in the 1st st, *4 dc, 2 dc*, repeat from * until you reach the 1st stitch marker, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the st with the 1st stitch marker, *2 dc, 4 dc* repeat from * until you reach the next stitch marker, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the st with stitch marker. Repeat across. Join with invisible join.

Note: *4 dc, 2 dc* means 4 dc sts in the next st and 2 dc sts in the next st.

With round 2 the neckline stretches. You’re gonna adjust the neckline at the end of the pattern.

Round 3 – 8: ch 2, fpdc in the 1st st and in each st across, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch 1 sp, *fpdc in the next st and across, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the ch 1 sp* repeat across.

Join with invisible join.

Separating body and sleeves

Round 9: ch 2, fpdc in the 1st st and across until you reach the ch 1 sp. Yo, insert the hook in the ch 1 sp and in the ch 1 sp on another side, yo and pull through both ch 1 sps, yo and pull through the 1st loop, you and pull through 2 loops, yo and pull through 2 loops on the hook (you just made a dc). Now continue working fpdcs across until you reach the next ch 1 sp and repeat the join there. Then fpdc across and join with invisible join.

Body

Round 10 – 30: ch 2, fpdc in the 1st st and across. Invisible sl st to join.

Tip: If you want the sweater to be longer, continue working rounds and then go on to the waist.

Waist

Round 31: ch 2, fpdc2tog in next 2 sts and across. Invisible sl st to join.

Round 32 – 37): ch 2, fpdc in the 1st st and across. Invisible sl st to join.

Round 38: ch 1 (counts as a stitch), sl st in the 2nd st from the hook and across. Sl st in the ch 1 to join.

Keep the sl sts loose to maintain the width of the waist. You can also go a hook size up to achieve that.

Finish off.

Sleeves

Right side facing attach the yarn in the 1st unworked stitch on the armpit.

Round 1: ch 2, fpdc in the same st, fpdc across.

Invisible join: with this join you will make 103rd fpdc.

1. Yo, insert hook in the st where you just made the last fpdc, insert hook in the very 1st st where you made the 1st fpdc, yo and pull through both sts, yo and pull through (you just made a sl st).

2. Now you just need to finish the last fpdc: yo and pull through 2 loops, yo and pull through 2 loops.

3. Now you need to join the upper part of the round with invisible join: pull the loop on the hook a little longer, remove the loop from the hook, insert the hook in the 2nd st from the back, take the loop through that st. Now continue onto round 2.

Round 2 – 36: ch 2, fpdc in the 1st st and across. Invisible sl st to join.

Tip: If you want the sleeves to be longer continue working rounds and then go on to round 37.

Round 37: ch 2, fpdc3tog in next 3 sts and across. Fpdc in the last st. Invisible sl st to join.

Round 38: ch 2, fpdc in the 1st and across. Invisible sl st to join.

Cuff

Round 39: ch 2 (counts as a stitch), (dc, ch 1, dc) in the 1st and across. Finish with a dc in the loop from invisible join, ch 1, sl st into the 1st st of the round.

Round 40 – 41: sl st in the ch 1 sp, ch 3 (counts as a dc and ch 1), work dc in ch 1 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in each ch 1 sp across. Sl st in the 3rd loop of ch 3 from the beginning of the round.

Finish off.

Repeat for the other sleeve.

Neckline

In this round, we’ll fine-tune the neckline for a perfect fit. If you find the neckline too wide, simply switch to a smaller hook for this round to achieve the desired snugness. You can also make two rounds of fpdcs, if needed.

Attach the yarn in the st where you joined the foundation chain. Ch 2, fpdc across. Invisible sl st to join.

Finish off.

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2025-03-24 09:14:08

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