Crochet Ocean Tied Cardigan

Notes:

This design is made from the bottom up, in separate panels.

Your St count will stay the same throughout the back panel and front panels. The Ch’s within the rows count towards your St count.

The Ch 3 at the start of the row counts as 1 Dc.

The Ch 2 at the start of the Hdc rows does NOT count as a St.

The Ch 4 at the star of the row counts as 1 Dc and 1 Ch.

The numbers in parenthesis at the beginning of the rows are your row counts for all sizes. The numbers in parenthesis at the end of the row are your stitch counts for all sizes.

Stitches and Abbreviations (US Terms):

Ch- Chain

Sp- Space

Sc- Single Crochet

St(s)- Stitch(es)

BLO- Back Loop Only

Hdc- Half Double Crochet

Sk- Skip

Dc- Double Crochet

Sl St- Slip Stitch

RS- Right Side

SM- Stitch Marker

Pattern:

Back Panel-

Ch 9

Row 1: 1 Sc in second Ch from hook and in each Ch across, turn. (8 Sc)

Rows 2-79(87, 95, 107, 115, 127, 135, 147, 155): Ch 1, 1 Sc in first St, 1 Sc (BLO) in each St across until 1 remains, 1 Sc in final St, turn.

Do not turn after the last row, you will now rotate your ribbing and work Row 1 of the main body of the sweater into the ends of the ribbing rows.

Row 1: Ch 1, 1 Sc into the end of each ribbing row across, turn. (79(87, 95,107, 115, 127, 135, 147, 155) Sc)

Row 2(RS): Ch 2 (does not count as a St), 1 Hdc in first St, *Ch 1, Sk 1, 1 Hdc*, repeat from * to * across row, turn. (79(87, 95,107, 115, 127, 135, 147, 155) Hdc/CHs)

Row 3: Ch 2 (does not count as a St), 1 Hdc in first St, 1 Hdc in first Ch Sp, *Ch 1, Sk 1, 1 Hdc in next Ch Sp*, repeat from * to * across row, 1 Hdc in final St, turn.

Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as 1 Dc), 1 Dc in next St, 1 Dc in first Ch Sp, 1 Hdc around the post of the Dc just made, *Sk 1, 1 Dc in next Ch Sp, 1 Hdc around the post of the Dc just made*, repeat from * to * across the row until 2 Sts remain, Sk next St, 1 Dc in final St, turn. (79(87, 95,107, 115, 127, 135, 147, 155) Dc/Hdcs)

Row 5: Ch 4 (counts as 1 Dc and 1 Ch Sp), Sk next St, 1 Dc in following St, *Ch 1, Sk 1, 1 Dc in next*, repeat from * to * across row (your last Dc is worked into the top of the Ch 3), turn. (79(87, 95,107, 115, 127, 135, 147, 155) Dc/Chs)

Row 6: Ch 3 (counts as 1 Dc), 1 Dc in first Ch Sp, *Ch 1, Sk 1, 1 Dc in next Ch Sp*, repeat from * to * across row, until 1 Dc and Ch Sp remain, Ch 1, Sk last Dc, 1 Dc in final Ch Sp, 1 Dc in the 3rd Ch of the starting Ch 4, turn.

Row 7: Ch 3 (counts as 1 Dc), 1 Dc in next St, 1 Dc in next Ch Sp, * Ch 2, Sk 3, 2 Dc in next Ch Sp* repeat from * to * across row until 4 Sts remain, Ch 2, Sk 2, 1 Dc in final 2 Sts, turn.

Row 8: Ch 4 (counts as 1 Dc and Ch 1 Sp), 2 Dc in next Ch Sp, *Ch 2, Sk 2, 2 Dc in next Ch Sp*, repeat from * to * across row until 3 Sts remain, Ch 2, Sk 2, 1 Dc in last St (the top of the Ch 3), turn.

Row 9: Ch 3 (counts as 1 Dc), 1 Dc in first Ch Sp, *Ch 3, 1 Dc in next Ch Sp* repeat from * to * across row (your last Dc repeat is in the very last Ch Sp of the row created from the starting Ch), 1 Dc in the 3rd Ch of the starting Ch 4, turn.

Row 10: Ch 5 (counts as 1 Dc and Ch 2 Sp), 1 Dc in first Ch Sp, *Ch 3, 1 Dc in next Ch Sp* repeat from * to * across row until 2 Sts remain, Ch 2, 1 Dc in last St (the top of the Ch 3), turn.

Row 11: Ch 3 (counts as 1 Dc), 1 Dc in first Ch Sp, *Ch 3, 1 Dc in next Ch Sp* repeat from * to * across row, 1 Dc in the 3rd Ch of the starting Ch 5, turn.

Row 12: Ch 2 (does not count), 1 Hdc in first St, *Ch 1, Sk 1, [1 Hdc, Ch 1, 1 Hdc] into next Ch Sp*, repeat from * to * across the row, until 2 Sts remain, Ch 1, Sk 1, 1 Hdc in final St (the top of the Ch 3), turn. (79(87, 95,107, 115, 127, 135, 147, 155) Hdc/Chs)

Rows 13-19: Repeat Rows 3-9.

Rows 20-27(27, 29, 31, 31, 33, 35, 35, 37): Repeat Rows 10 & 11.

For a longer or shorter top, simply add or remove rows here in multiples of 2. Take into account your yardage will change from the required amount above.

Row 28(28, 30, 32, 32, 34, 36, 36, 38): Ch 1, 1 Sc in the top of each St and 3 Sc into each of the Ch-3 Sps across row, turn. (79(87, 95,107, 115, 127, 135, 147, 155) Sc)

Fasten off.

Front Panel (make 2)-

Ch 9

Row 1: 1 Sc in second Ch from hook and in each Ch across, turn. (8 Sc)

Rows 2-31(35, 39, 43, 47, 55, 59, 63, 67): Ch 1, 1 Sc in first St, 1 Sc (BLO) in each St across until 1 remains, 1 Sc in final St, turn.

Do not turn after the last row, you will now rotate your ribbing and work Row 1 of the main body of the sweater into the ends of the ribbing rows.

Repeat Rows 1-28(28, 30, 32, 32, 34, 36, 36, 38) of the back panel. Your St count for the front panels will be 31(35, 39, 43, 47, 55, 59, 63, 67) Sts for each row.

Fasten off, leave a long tail for seaming your front panel to your back panel.

Sleeves (make 2)-

Ch 9

Row 1: 1 Sc in second Ch from hook and in each Ch across, turn. (8 Sc)

Rows 2-32(32, 34, 38, 40, 44, 48, 50, 50): Ch 1, 1 Sc in first St, 1 Sc (BLO) in each St across until 1 remains, 1 Sc in final St, turn.

Do not turn after the last row, you will now rotate your ribbing and work Row 1 of the main body of the sleeve into the ends of the ribbing rows.

Row 1: Ch 1, 2 Sc into the end of each ribbing row across until 1 remains, 1 Sc into the end of the final row, turn. 63(63, 67, 75, 79, 87, 95, 99, 99) Sc)

Repeat Rows 2-19 of the back panel.

Rows 20-37(37, 37, 35, 35, 35, 35, 33, 33) : Repeat Rows 10 & 11 of back panel.

The last Sc row is not made on the sleeves. This is a drop shoulder style cardigan. The wider the front/back panels are, the shorter the sleeve needs to be because they join further down your shoulder. That’s why the smaller sizes have more rows than the larger. You an easily adjust your sleeve length by adding or taking away as many rows as needed.

Fasten off, leave a long tail for seaming sleeve to sweater.

Join panels-

Block your panels to the measurements listed above. I recommend a steam block.

Place your front and back panels together RS facing.

Using your preferred seaming method attach the front panels to the back panel at the shoulders. Be sure your panels are aligned and that you aren’t bunching or skipping stitches. Next, using the same joining process as above, we will be attaching the sleeves to the top. Make sure the center of the sleeve is aligned with the shoulder seam. Be sure to check that your sleeves are even on both the front and back panel as you go. It is helpful to use SM’s here to keep your sleeve in place as you join. Finally, fold your top so that the back and front panels are on top of each other, RS facing. Seam from the cuffs to the underarm and down the side of the cardigan.

Add Trim and Tie-

With your top RS out, join yarn with a Sl St to the bottom corner of the left panel (right when worn).

Row 1: Ch 1, Sc evenly up the side of the front panel, across the back neckline, and down the side of the second front panel. Exact St count is not crucial here, just try to keep your Sts even. I worked approximately 2 Sc into then end of each Dc row and 1 Sc into the end of each Hdc row along the sides of the front panels.

Do not fasten off, turn your work and begin the Tie-

Row 1: Ch 4 (counts as 1 Dc and Ch 1), Sk 1, 1 Dc in next, *Ch 1, Sk 1, 1 Dc in next* repeat from * to * 1 more time, turn. (7 Dc/Ch)

Rows 2- 9: Repeat Row 1.

Row 10: Ch 3 (counts as 1 Dc), 1 Dc in each Dc across, skipping over the Ch Sps, turn. (4 Dc)

Row 11: Ch 3 (counts as 1 Dc), Sk over the next 2 Dc, 1 Dc in last. (2 Dc)

Fasten off.

Join yarn to the bottom corner St on the other front panel with a Sl St and repeat Rows 1-11 of the tie.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.