Universal Crochet Basket

You’ll need:

2 balls of grey Erika Knight for John Lewis’s Super Chunky yarn (265m/350g);

1 ball of the same yarn, but in blue color;

1 ball of the same yarn, but in cream color;

Crochet hook 7 mm.

Size: 11” diameter.

Special Stitches

Spot stitch: made by working a dc5tog into one stitch: *Yarn over hook, insert st, draw up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, repeat from * 4 more times so that there are 6 loops on the hook, yarn over, draw through all 6 loops. (You may need to poke the spot to the front of the work after working the sc which follows this stitch.)

fpdc2tog: are worked around the post stitches made in the row below. The first of the fpdc’s is worked about the post you have just crocheted past, and the second is about the next post stitch up ahead, so as to make a wide “v” shape around the spot stitch (which will be centred below this stitch): Yarn over hook, insert hook about the post stitch from the round below, yarn over hook, draw up a loop, yarn over draw through two loops (two loops left on hook). Yarn over hook, Insert hook through next post stitch along, yarn over, draw up a loop, yarn over, draw through two loops (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw through all 3 loops. Don’t forget that your post stitch will leave an unworked stitch behind the front of the stitch. You will not be working in this stitch. The next fpdc2tog in the round will be worked about the same post stitch as just used, and the next one along.

Instructions

The basket is worked seamlessly in the round from the centre base out. Stitches in brackets () are all to be worked into the next stitch.

Base

Begin with a magic ring.

R1: Ch2 (counts as dc), 11dc into circle, join with a sl-st, pull circle closed [12 sts]

R2: Ch2 (counts as dc), dc in same st, (2dc) into each st around, join with a sl-st [24sts]

R3: Ch2 (counts as dc), dc in same st, *dc, (2dc), repeat from * 10 times, dc, join with a sl-st to top of chain [36sts]

R4: Ch2 (counts as dc), dc in same st, *2dc, (2dc), repeat from * 10 times, 2dc, join with a sl-st to top of chain [48sts]

R5: Ch2 (counts as dc), dc in same st, *3dc, (2dc), repeat from * 10 times, 3dc, join with a sl-st to top of chain [60sts]

R6: Ch2 (counts as dc), dc in same st, *4dc, (2dc), repeat from * 10 times, 4dc, join with a sl-st to top of chain [72sts]

R7: Ch2 (counts as dc), dc in same st, *5dc, (2dc), repeat from * 10 times, 5dc, join with a sl-st to top of chain [84sts]

R8: Ch2 (counts as dc), dc in same st, *6dc, (2dc), repeat from * 10 times, 6dc, join with a sl-st to top of chain [96sts]

If you prefer a larger base then continue to work in expansion pattern (or stop prior to round 8 if you want a smaller one). Work an even number of rounds so that you finish the base on a multiple of 8 sts – each round will now have this number of stitches for the sides of the basket.

Sides

If you are not already using it, switch to the colour you will be using for your hexagon post stitches.

R9: Working in the back loops only, ch 1, sc in each stitch around, sl-st to join [96 sts]

Switch to the colour of your first spot round (blue in example)

R10: ch1, *sc in each of next 3 sts, spot stitch, repeat from * around, join with a sl-st [96sts]

Switch to your hexagon post stitch colour (grey in example)

All fpdc’s in round 11 are worked about the sc two rows below – it will be the same colour yarn as you are currently using and should make a vertical st in between the spot sts.

R11: ch1, sc, fpdc, *sc in next 3 sts, fpdc, repeat from * 22 more times, sc in each of last two sts, join with a sl-st [96sts]

R12: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, fpdc2tog, repeat from * 23 more times, join with a sl-st into first st [96sts]

Switch to your next spot colour yarn (cream in example)

R13: ch1, sc, *spot stitch, sc in each of next 3 sts, repeat from * 22 more times, spot stitch, sc in each of last 2 sts [96 sts]

Switch to your hexagon post stitch colour (grey in example).

All fpdc’s in round 14 and throughout the remainder of the project are worked about the fpdc2tog sts made in the round two below where you are working.

R14: ch1, *sc in each of next 3 sts, fpdc, repeat from * 23 more times, join with a sl-st [96 sts]

R15: ch1, sc, *fpdc2tog, sc in next 3 sts, repeat from * 22 more times, fpdc2tog, sc in each of last 2 sts, join with a sl-st [96 sts]

Repeat rounds 10-15 until basket is desired height. Finish on a round 11 or 14.

Handles Loops

If you just worked a fpdc at the end of your last round, join with a sl-st in the back loop only.

If you just worked 2sc, join with a sl-st and work 2 more sl-sts. Sl-st in the back loop only of the next st.

Work 10 more sl-sts in the back loop only, sl-st through both loops of next st. Ch12, turn and skip the 11 sts made in the back loop only, sl-st in next st. Fasten off and turn to work in the usual direction.

Count 48 sts (or half of your total stitch count, if you have made a custom size) around from where you fastened off and rejoin the yarn to repeat making the second handle loop. You should be joining into a fpdc st.

Work 11 sl-sts in the back loop only, sl-st through both loops of the next st, ch12, turn, sl-st into the joining st. Sl-st into the next st, ch1, and turn.

Handle Rounds

R16: hdc2tog working into the current st and the st prior to the handle chain. Work 13 hdc over the chain, hdc2tog over the first two stitches after the chain. Now work in pattern over the next section:

[*dc2tog, 3sc, repeat from * 7 times, dc2tog], hdc2tog (over the last 2 sts before the chain), 13hdc into handle chain, hdc2tog over first two stitches after chain, repeat everything inside [], join with a sl-st.

R17: Ch1, *hdc2tog (this will be in the hdc2tog and a regular hdc), hdc, (2hdc), 7hdc, (2hdc), hdc, hdc2tog, sc, sl-st in back loop only 31 times, sc, repeat from *, join with a sl-st.

Fasten off.

Base Edging

Optional: To edge the base, join the main colour (grey) to the unworked front loops which run around the basket edge. Sl-st into each loop around.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.