Helping our users. ​Crochet Top with Net Sides.

You’ll need:

Approx. 350 (375, 425, 475, 550)m of worsted cotton yarn;

Crochet hook 5 mm;

Darning needle;

Scissors.

Size: XS (S, M, L, XL)

Bust circumference: 78 (86, 95, 105, 115) cm.

Instructions

Yoke

The yoke is a circle of 5 rows openwork crochet. It is worked in closed rounds without turning. ch 102 (108, 114, 120, 126), close with a slst to form a circle (be careful not to twist the chain)

Round 1: ch1 (does not count as a st), hdc in each ch around, working into the back bump of the ch’s, close with slst in first hdc (102 (108, 114, 120, 126) sts)

Round 2: ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in first st, [ch5, sk 2 sts, sc in next st] repeat around, except for the last repeat: instead of ch5: ch2 and dc in first sc to close the round. (34 (36, 38, 40, 42) ch-sp’s)

Round 3: ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in the ch-sp you just made (that actually consists of 2ch + dc), [ch 6, sc in next ch-sp] repeat around, except for the last repeat: instead of ch6: ch3 and tr in first sc to close the round. (34 (36, 38, 40, 42) ch-sp’s)

Round 4: ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in the ch-sp you just made (that actually consists of 3ch + tr), [ch 3, sc in next ch-sp] repeat around, close with slst in first sc (34 (36, 38, 40, 42) ch-sp’s)

Round 5: ch1 (does not count as a st), hdc in first sc, [3 hdc in next ch-sp, hdc in next sc] repeat around, close with a slst in first hdc (136 (144, 152, 160, 168 hdc’s)

Back

Short Rows First, we are going to crochet 8 (8, 10, 10, 10) rows back and forth at the back.

Back Short Row 1: (RSF) ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in the back loop of the next 36 (41, 44, 50, 54) sts, work one more dc into both loops of next st, turn. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Back Short Row 2: (WSF) ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc across, turn. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Back Short Row 3-8: as row 2. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Sizes M, L, XL only: Back Short Row 9-10: as row 2. (x (x, 46, 52, 56) dc) At the end of the last back short row, don't fasten off but just pull up the working loop so your work doesn't start to unravel and leave that skein to rest for a bit - we'll continue where we left off later.

Front Short Rows

We are going to work a few short rows at the front of the top as well. Grab a new skein of yarn and lay the yoke flat, as a circle in front of you, right side up. Now, look for the last dc of the first back short row (circled in the photo below) and count 33 (32, 33, 31, 31) yoke hdc’s from there. Skip these sts and join the yarn to the 34th (33rd, 34th, 32nd, 32nd) hdc of the yoke. (In other words, there should be 33 (32, 33, 31, 31) skipped hdc's between the end of the first back short row and the beginning of the first front short row.)

Front Short Row 1: Ch3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in the same st (increase made), dc in the back loop of each of the next 30 (35, 38, 44, 48) hdc's, 2 dc in next st (increase made), turn. (34 (39, 42, 48, 52) dc's)

Front Short Row 2: Ch3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in same st, dc in each dc up to the last st: 2 dc in the last st (i.e. the beginning ch3 of last row), turn. (36 (41, 44, 50, 54) dc's)

Front Short Row 3: as previous row. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc's)

Fasten off and put your hook back into the 'resting' loop where you left off after the back short rows. Now onto the bodice...

Bodice

Now we'll be working in closed rounds again, without turning. Rounds 3 and 5 are a little more complex, so I have included photos to help, below.

Bodice Round 1: (creating armholes and joining with the front) RSF. Now you should be at the end of the last back short row. Turn (the last time you turn in this pattern!), ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each of the dc’s across the back, ch 13 (13, 16, 16, 19) for right underarm, dc in next 38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc's across the front, ch 13 (13, 16, 16, 19) for left underarm, slst in first dc to close round. Do not turn. (102 (112, 124, 136, 150) sts)

Bodice Round 2: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc and sc in each ch around, slst in first dc to close round. Do not turn. (102 (112, 124, 136, 150) sts)

Bodice Round 3: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc across the back, until the first sc of the underarm section: [ch2, 2trtog into the 1 st and 4 th sc, ch2, 2trtog into the 4 th and 7 th sc and so on (7 th and 10 th , 10 th and 13 th etc.) until you have made 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) 2trtog's; the last 2trtog should have its second ‘leg’ in the final sc of the underarm section, ch 2], dc in each dc across the front, repeat from [ to ] at the left underarm section, slst in first dc to close round. (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dc's + 8 (8, 10, 10, 12) 2trtog's)

Bodice Round 4: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc across the back, at underarm section: [2 sc in first ch-sp, 3 sc in each of the next 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) ch-sp's, 2 sc in the final ch-sp of underarm section (do not work into the 2trtog’s)], dc in each dc across the front, repeat from [ to ] at the left underarm section, slst in first dc to close round. (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dc's + 26 (26, 32, 32, 38) sc's)

Bodice Round 5: as round 3, except underarm sections: [skip 2 sc's, tr in the 3rd sc, ch 2, 2trtog into the 3 rd and 6 th sc, ch 2, 2 trtog into the 6 th and 9 th sc, ch 2, and so on until only 1 sc remains of the underarm section: tr into the 2nd to last sc, skip the last sc] (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dc's + 6 (6, 8, 8, 10) 2trtog's + 4 (4, 4, 4, 4) tr)

Bodice Round 6: as round 4, except underarm sections: [3 sc in each ch-sp, 4 sc in the last ch-sp, skip the 2trtog’s] (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dc's + 26 (26, 32, 32, 38) sc's)

Repeat rounds 3-6 until the top measures approx. 28 (30, 30, 32, 35) cm or 11 (12, 12, 13, 14) inches from underarm, ending with a round 4 or 6. Or work to your desired length.

Optional waist shaping

You may add waist shaping if you prefer the top slightly fitted at the waist. This is done by decreasing 2 sts per round, at approximately rounds 10-15 of the bodice – or just below the bust – (total 12 sts decreased) and then increasing 2 sts per round, at approximately rounds 22-25 – at the hips – (total 8 sts increased). Of course, everybody is different; this may not match your shape. My advice is to try on as you go to check where to begin and end the shaping rounds. Anyhow, this is how I placed the shaping rounds:

Bodice Rounds 10, 12, 14: work one decrease (dc2tog) at the beginning of both back and front dc panels

Bodice Rounds 11, 13, 15: work one decrease (dc2tog) at the end of both back and front dc panels

Bodice Rounds 22, 24: work one increase (i.e. one extra dc) into the first st of both back and front dc panels

Bodice Rounds 23, 25: work one increase (i.e. one extra dc) into the last st of both back and front dc panels

Fasten off, wash and block – blocking really makes a difference to cotton garments!