Crochet Adorable Daisy is a delightful project that brings a touch of charm and sweetness to any crochet creation. With its intricate petals and vibrant colors, this daisy pattern is perfect for adding a pop of fun to your crafting repertoire. Whether you're a seasoned crocheter or a newbie looking to try something new, Crochet Adorable Daisy is sure to put a smile on your face as you work on this playful and whimsical design. So grab your crochet hook and some yarn, and get ready to create a lovely daisy that will brighten up your day!
Pink embroidery floss or pink yarn (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Baby Pink)
Pink embroidery floss or pink yarn (example uses Red Heart Super Saver: Perfect Pink)
sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (over the span of 2 stitches), also known as a decrease
Please note that this pattern is written so that each crochet stitch abbreviation is attached to a number, such as 1sc, 2sc, etc. This number denotes how many of that stitch is to be worked into the same stitch.
This pattern is worked in the round, with each round joined at the end with a slip stitch. Unless otherwise instructed, the first stitch of your next round will always be worked into the same stitch as your joining slip stitch has been worked into.
Be sure to always keep the ‘right side’ of your stitches facing outwards as you work. The right side is the front side of the stitch that is facing you as you are completing each stitch.
With yarn C (yellow), make a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into 1st st to form ring, ch 1).
Rnd 1: 6sc into ring, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 2: 2sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 3: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 4: 1sc into each st around, join (12).
Fasten off yarn C and leave an end tail for sewing. Set aside for now.
Crochet Daisy Leaves:
With yarn E (green), leave a beginning tail for tying and chain 7.
For best results, try working row 1 into the back bars of the chain stitches.
Row 1: sl st into 2nd ch from hook, 1sc into next st, 1hdc into each of next 2 sts, 1sc into next st, sl st into next st (6).
Fasten off yarn E and leave an end tail for tying, as well. Set aside for now.
Repeat row 1, one more time, for a total of two leaves.
Crochet Daisy Stem:
The majority of this crochet daisy stem is worked in rounds of only 4 stitches each.
While this creates a nice, slim stem for your flower, it may be challenging for some crocheters to work into.
If you have difficulty working into small rounds, you may instead replace rounds 3 to 15 with continuing rounds of 6 stitches each (1sc into each st around, join).
Choose whichever method works best for you!
With yarn E (green), chain 13.
For best results, try working round 1 into the back bars of the chain stitches.
Rnd 1: 1sc into 2nd ch from hook, 1sc into each of next 11 sts, sl st into 1st st to join into a circle, ch 1 (12). Rnd 2: [sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (6).
Rnd 3: [1sc into next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 4: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 5 to 13 (9 rnds): repeat round 4 (4).
Secure your working loop with a stitch marker and retrieve your leaves set aside earlier.
Take the beginning tail from your first leaf and thread it between any two stitches, from outside to inside, between rounds 12 and 13.
Then, take your end tail and thread it through an adjacent stitch (but not the same space), so that both tails are now on the inside.
Knot both tails together on the inside of your stem to secure your leaf and trim any excess length. Then, continue to round 14.
Rnd 14: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).
Rnd 15: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (4).
Secure your working loop with a stitch marker.
Retrieve your second leaf and position it on the opposite side of your stem from your first leaf, between rounds 14 and 15.
Repeat the same steps as before to attach your second leaf to the stem, then continue to round 15.
Rnd 16: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 2 times, join (6).
Fasten of yarn E and leave a short tail for tying.
Crochet Daisy Petals:
Retrieve your daisy center and align it on top of your stem so that the last round of the center lines up with the first round of your stem.
With the end tail leftover from the daisy center, sew around the entire circumference of the back loops only of both pieces to connect them.
If you did not work into the back bars during round 1 of your stem, don’t worry! Just be sure to at least keep the front loops of the daisy center untouched, and you may work off of these loops alone.
Once your daisy center is sewn onto the top of your stem, you will now be working round 1 of the petals through the front loops only of both pieces together, as though both front loops together were the two loops of one normal stitch.
Again, if you did not work into the back bars during round 1 of your stem, simply work into the front loops of the daisy center only.
With yarn D (white) make a slip knot. For best results, trying working into the back bars of each chain stitch in round 1.
Rnd 1: [sl st into next st of daisy center, ch 7, sl st into 2nd ch from hook, 1sc into next ch, 1hdc into each of next 2 ch, 1sc into next ch, sl st into next ch, sl st into same st of daisy center] 12 times, sl st into 1st st to join (96).
Fasten off yarn D and weave in ends. Set your crochet daisy aside for now.
Crochet Flower Pot – Rounds 1 to 12:
With yarn A (brown), leave a tail for sewing and chain 6. Slip stitch into the first chain to form a circle and chain 1.
Rnd 1: 2sc into each ch around, sl st into 1st st to join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 2: [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).
Rnd 3: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (24).
Rnd 4: [1sc into each of next 3 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 5: [2sc into next st, 1sc into each of next 4 sts] 6 times, join (36).
Fasten off yarn A and leave a long (~2 ft) tail for sewing.
Join yarn B (orange) by inserting your hook into the front loop only of the first stitch of your next round. Leaving a short tail for tying, pull up a loop of yarn B and ch 1.
Rnd 6: 1sc into FLO of each st around, join, ch 1 (36).
Rnd 7: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (36).
Rnd 8: in BLO of each st around, [1sc into each of next 5 sts, 2sc into next st] 6 times, join, ch 1 (42).
Rnd 9: 1sc into BLO of each st around, join, ch 1 (42).
Rnd 10: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (42).
Rnd 11: in BLO of each st around, [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 5 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (36).
Rnd 12: 1sc into FLO of each st around, join, ch 1 (36).
Secure your working loop with a stitch marker and follow the directions below for sewing the rim of the crochet flower pot before continuing to round 13.
Crochet Flower Pot – Sewing the Rim:
Flip your work and locate the two rounds of loops (the back loops from round 5 and the back loops from round 11) that are leftover on the interior of your crochet flower pot.
With your long (~2 ft) tail of yarn A, leftover from fastening off after round 5, sew these two rounds together to seal off the rim of your pot.
Secure with a knot on the interior of your piece using the short tail of yarn B, leftover from beginning round 6, and trim any excess tail.
Remove the stitch marker from your working loop and continue to round 13 of your crochet flower pot below.
Crochet Flower Pot – Rounds 13 to 19:
Rnd 13: 1sc into each st around, join, ch 1 (36).
Rnd 14: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 16 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (34).
Rnd 15: [1sc into each of next 15 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (32).
Rnd 16: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 14 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (30).
Rnd 17: [1sc into each of next 13 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (28).
Rnd 18: [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 12 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (26).
Rnd 19: [1sc into each of next 11 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 2 times, join, ch 1 (24).
Secure your working loop with a stitch marker and follow the directions below for adding the eyes, mouth, and blush onto your crochet flower pot before continuing to round 20.
Adding Eyes:
Using the example piece below as reference, insert both safety eyes through the center of the front of your crochet flower pot (a quarter-turn before your joining seam).
The safety eyes should be inserted between rounds 14 and 15 and should sit 6 stitches apart.
Adding Mouth:
Rotate your piece so that the beginning rounds face upwards and your last round faces downwards.
Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a mouth using black embroidery floss.
The mouth should be embroidered over top of round 16 and be centered between the eyes. The mouth will be 2 stitches wide and 1 round tall.
Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 2 stitches to the right from where you’ve inserted the left eye. Pull through and leave some tail for tying later.
Then, insert your needle again, 2 stitches to the right, and out again, 1 round down and 1 stitch to the left from where you’ve just inserted, and pull through.
Pass your needle up and underneath the horizontal strand you’ve just created and pull through. Then, insert your needle back into the same space as you’ve last exited from.
Pull your thread through and tug it down slightly until it forms a V-shape. Gently tie both ends together inside your piece, but take extra care not to pull the threads too tight!
Adding Blush:
Using the example piece below as reference, embroider a blush line using pink embroidery floss or yarn next to each eye.
Each blush line should start 1 round down (between rounds 15 and 16) and 1 stitch outwards from where each eye was inserted, and span 1 stitch length outwards (away from the center of the face).
Begin by inserting your needle from inside to outside, 1 round down and 1 stitch outwards from where you’ve inserted the eye.
Pull through, leaving some tail inside for tying later. Then, insert your needle back in, 1 more stitch outwards.
If using medium weight yarn, you may skip ahead to tying both ends together on the inside of your piece.
If using embroidery floss, pass your needle back out through the same space as you’ve last exited from. Pull through and repeat both steps 4 more times.
On the next pass, insert your needle as normal but do not exit. Instead, pull through and remove your needle, then gently tie both ends together on the inside of your piece, taking extra care not to pull the threads too tight!
Crochet Daisy Flower Pot – Rounds 20 to 22:
Continue to the next round of your crochet flower pot and begin stuffing as you go.
Rnd 20: in BLO of each st around, [sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc into each of next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (18).
Rnd 21: [1sc into next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 times, join, ch 1 (12).
Rnd 22: [sc2tog over next 2 sts] 6 time, join (6).
Fasten off yarn B and leave a tail for sewing closed.
Sewing Closed:
To sew the bottom hole closed, pass the needle (front to back) through the front loop only of each stitch around and then pull tight. Secure the tail with a knot, trim the tail, and sew in any remaining length.
Crochet Daisy – Sewing Together:
Retrieve your daisy and place the bottom of the stem over top of the center hole (round 1) of the crochet flower pot.
Using the tail of yarn A leftover from the beginning of the flower pot, sew around the entire circumference of the daisy stem and flower pot hole to attach them together.
Secure with a knot to the end tail of the stem, trim any excess length, and weave in tails.
Finally, cut a length of wire to the height of your crochet daisy, from the bottom of the flower pot to the top of stem.
Gently thread the wire between 2 stitches at the top of the stem until it reaches the bottom of your crochet flower pot and your daisy is able to stand upright on its own.
