How to Make Your Own Crochet Doll Coney

Leyla

Mar 08, 2025 04:16 PM

Create Your Own Adorable Crochet Doll Coney with This Comprehensive DIY Guide

Crochet Doll Coney is an adorable handmade doll that brings warmth and charm to any space. With its intricate crochet design and sweet smile, Coney is sure to melt your heart and brighten your day. Whether you cuddle up with it for a cozy night in or display it proudly on a shelf, this little doll adds a touch of whimsy to your surroundings.

Its soft texture and friendly appearance make it a perfect companion for both children and adults alike. Crochet Doll Coney is more than just a toy - it's a cherished piece of art that radiates joy and comfort wherever it goes.

Supplies You Need

To create Crochet Doll Coney, you will need:

Approximately 50 gr cotton yarn (e.g. Schachenmayr Catania 125m/50g) in two colors: white and brown
Crochet hook (size 3 mm)
Polyester fiberfill stuffing
Scissors
Yarn needle

Skill Level

Intermediate

Size

The completed amigurumi measures approximately 26 cm, but you can adjust the size depending on the yarn and hook you use.

Skills You Need

Chain
Single crochet
Double crochet
Half double crochet
Slip stitch
Increase
Decrease

Abbreviations

Ch = Chain
St = Stitch
Sc = Single crochet
Sl st = Slip stitch
Dec = Decrease stitch (two single crochets together)
Inc = Increase stitch (two single crochets into one stitch)
Dc = Double crochet
Rnd = Round

Tips

Do not join rounds; work in a continuous spiral.
Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the end or the beginning of a round.
All stitches are worked into both loops unless stated otherwise in the pattern.
You can use any type of yarn as long as you have a corresponding crochet hook size (check yarn label for recommendations).
Numbers at the end of each round in parentheses () indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row.
Please note that I use US crochet terms.

Seamless Way of Changing Color When Working in the Round

Pick up the new color at the end of the round: insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over the new color and pull through the stitch and the loop on your hook to complete the stitch.

Front Post Double Crochet

Yarn over, insert your hook between the posts of the first and second stitch of the row below, and then from back to front again between the posts of the second and third stitches.

Instructions

Arm (2x)

Start with beige color yarn.

Round 1: 6 sc into Magic Ring.
Round 2: Inc 6 times (12 stitches).
Round 3: *Sc in each of the next 3 stitches, inc* (15 stitches).
Rounds 4-18: Sc in each of the next 15 stitches.
Round 19: *Dec, sc in each of the next 3 stitches* (12 stitches).
Round 20: Sc in each of the next 12 stitches.
Stuff slightly. Bind off. Work the second arm the same way.

Bootie (2x)

Use green color yarn.

Round 1: 6 sc into Magic Ring.
Round 2: Inc 6 times (12 stitches).
Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc* (18 stitches).
Round 4: (*Sc in the next st, inc* repeat three times, sc in each of the next 3 st) repeat twice (24 stitches).
Round 5: (*Sc in each of the next 2 st, inc* repeat three times, sc in each of the next 3 st) repeat twice (30 stitches).
Round 6 (working into the back loop): Sc in each of the next 30 stitches.
Round 7: Sc in each of the next 30 stitches.
Round 8: Sc in each of the next 2 stitches, *dec* six times, sc in each of the next 16 stitches (24 stitches).
Round 9: *Dec* five times, sc in each of the next 6 stitches, dec, sc in each of the next 6 stitches (18 stitches).
Round 10: Sc in each of the next 18 stitches.
Don’t bind off. Continue crocheting in rounds.

Leg (2x)

Change the yarn color to beige.

Round 1 (working into the back loop): Sc in each of the next 18 stitches.
Round 2-3: Sc in each of the next 18 stitches.
Change the color.
Round 4 (working into the back loop): Sc in each of the next 18 stitches.
Round 5: Sc in each of the next 18 stitches.
Round 6: *Sc in each of the next 5 stitches, inc* (21 stitches).
Round 7-8: Sc in each of the next 21 stitches.
Change the color.
Working into the front loop with green color yarn: Sc in each stitch till the end of the round.
Work on round in sc around the sole of the bootie.
Stuff firmly. Bind off the first leg.
Work the second leg the same way but don’t bind off!

Shift Stitch

Sometimes during the work of the spiral amigurumi, you need to keep the work symmetrical. As the work tends to twist to the right, you need to adjust the position of the marker periodically (beginning of the round).

The shift stitch is an extra stitch you work at the end of a round to make your work look symmetrical. If you notice that the marker moves right, you need to work one extra stitch at the end of the round and move the marker by one stitch (now the 2nd stitch of the round becomes the 1st). This is the shift stitch.

The shift stitch is not included in the round description. To check if it’s time to work the shift stitch, fold your work in half and check if the marker still goes straight or use a yarn that marks a straight line.

You may think this is an increase, but it isn’t. This way you don’t increase or decrease the number of stitches. The stitch count remains the same.

Body and Head

Work shift stitch every 3-4 rounds.

Round 1: Chain 5 stitches, work one round over both legs (21 stitches of the first leg, sc in each of the next 5 stitches, 21 stitches of the second leg).
Round 2: Sc in each of the next 15 stitches, inc, sc in each of the next 25 stitches, inc, sc in each of the next 10 stitches (54 stitches).
Round 3: Sc in each of the next 54 stitches.
Round 4: Sc in each of the next 16 stitches, inc, sc in each of the next 26 stitches, inc, sc in each of the next 10 stitches (56 stitches).
Rounds 5-8: Sc in each of the next 56 stitches.
Round 9: Sc in each of the next 14 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of the next 23 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of the next 9 stitches (52 stitches).
Rounds 10-12: Sc in each of the next 52 stitches.
Round 13: Sc in each of the next 13 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of the next 21 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of the next 8 stitches (48 stitches).
Rounds 14-17: Sc in each of the next 48 stitches.
Round 18: Sc in each of the next 12 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of the next 19 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of the next 7 stitches (44 stitches).
Rounds 19-20: Sc in each of the next 44 stitches.
Start stuffing the body with fiberfill and keep stuffing while crocheting.
Round 21: Sc in each of the next 11 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of the next 17 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of the next 6 stitches (40 stitches).
Rounds 22-23: Sc in each of the next 40 stitches.
Change the color.
Working into the front loop with white color yarn: * Sc in the next stitch, chain 2 stitches*, repeat till the end of the round.
Round 24: Sc in each of the next 10 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of the next 15 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of the next 5 stitches (36 stitches).
Round 25: Sc in each of the next 36 stitches.
Change the color.
Round 26: (working into the back loop): Sc in each of the next 36 stitches.
Round 27: Sc in each of the next 9 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of the next 13 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of the next 4 stitches (32 stitches).
In the next round, attach the hands (ensure that the hands are located in the middle and make several shift stitches if needed):
Round 28: Sc in each of the next 6 stitches, 6 sc both through hand and body, sc in each of the next 11 stitches, 6 sc both through hand and body, sc in each of the next 3 stitches.
Stuff the body firmly.
Round 29: Sc in each of the next 32 stitches.
Round 30: Sc in each of the next 8 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of the next 11 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of the next 3 stitches (28 stitches).
Round 31: Sc in each of the next 28 stitches.
Round 32: Sc in each of the next 7 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of the next 9 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of the next 2 stitches (24 stitches).
Change the color.
Round 33: Sc in each of the next 24 stitches.
Rounds 34-36: Sc in each of the next 28 stitches.
Do not bind off! You can crochet the neck longer by adding some more rounds or thinner by decreasing some more stitches.

Head

Round 1: *Sc in next stitch, inc* (36 stitches).
Round 2: *Sc in each of the next 2 stitches, inc* (48 stitches).
Round 3: *Sc in each of the next 7 stitches, inc* (54 stitches).
Round 4: *Sc in each of the next 8 stitches, inc* (60 stitches).
Rounds 5-15: Sc in each of the next 60 stitches.
Round 16: *Dec, sc in each of the next 8 stitches* (54 stitches).
Round 17: *Dec, sc in each of the next 7 stitches* (48 stitches).
Round 18: Sc in each of the next 48 stitches.
Round 19: *Dec, sc in each of the next 6 stitches* (42 stitches).
Round 20: *Dec, sc in each of the next 5 stitches* (36 stitches).
Round 21: *Dec, sc in each of the next 4 stitches* (30 stitches).
Round 22: *Dec, sc in each of the next 3 stitches* (24 stitches).
Round 23: *Dec, sc in each of the next 2 stitches* (18 stitches).
Stuff firmly.
Round 24: *Dec, sc in the next stitch* (12 stitches).
Round 25: *Dec*, repeat 6 times. Bind off.
Bind off. Weave in the yarn end.
Change the color.
Crochet one round around the neckline (working into the front loop with white color yarn): * Sc in the next stitch, chain 2 stitches*, repeat till the end of the round.

Strap (2x)

For the strap, chain 28 stitches, sc in the 2nd stitch from hook, sc in each of the next 2 stitches, ch2, skip the next 2 stitches, sc in each of the next stitches until the end of the round. Bind off leaving a long tail for sewing. Work the second strap the same way.

Wig

Make the wig cap first. Keep testing it on your doll’s head until it’s the size you want it.

Round 1: 12 dc into Magic Ring.
Working into the back loop:
Round 2: Ch3, dc in the same st as ch, 2 dc in each of the next 11 sts, sl st to top of ch 3 (24 stitches).
Round 3: Ch3, dc in the same st as ch, dc in next st, *2 dc in next st, dc in next st*, repeat from*to* 11 times, sl st to top of ch 3 (36 stitches).
Round 4: Ch3, dc in the same st as ch, dc in next st, *2 dc in next st, dc in each of the next 2 sts*, repeat from*to* 11 times, sl st to top of ch 3 (48 stitches).
Round 5: Ch3, dc in the same st as ch, dc in next st, *2 dc in next st, dc in each of the next 3 sts*, repeat from*to* 6 times, sl st to top of ch 3 (60 stitches).

For each curl, *cast on 30 ch, crochet 1 half dc into the 3rd stitch from the hook, (2 half dc in the next stitch, half dc in the next stitch) repeat to the end of the row, skip the next stitch, 1 sl st in each of the next 2 stitches*, repeat from * to * 14 times.

After a round of curls made up of 30 chain stitches is completed, the curl round is repeated on the hair cap at intervals of 1-2 rounds, here cast on 30 chain stitches for each curl (crochet into the front loops).

Further rounds follow on the hair cap until all the single crochet stitches are covered and the curls are evenly distributed on the hair cap.

Hat

Work in grey color yarn.

Round 1: Chain 4 stitches, join with sl st into ring. Ch3, 11dc into ring, sl st (12 sts).
Round 2: Ch3, dc in the same st as ch, 2 dc in each of the next 11 sts, sl st to top of ch 3 (24 stitches).
Round 3: Ch3, dc in the same st as ch, dc in next st, *2 dc in next st, dc in next st*, repeat from*to* 11 times, sl st to top of ch 3 (36 stitches).
Round 4: Ch3, dc in the same st as ch, dc in next st, *2 dc in next st, dc in each of the next 2 sts*, repeat from*to* 11 times, sl st to top of ch 3 (48 stitches).
Round 5: Ch3, dc in the same st as ch, dc in next st, *2 dc in next st, dc in each of the next 3 sts*, repeat from*to* 6 times, sl st to top of ch 3 (60 stitches).
Round 6: Dc in each of the next 60 sts.
Rounds 7-10: Ch3, *fpdc in the next st, dc in the next st*.

Ear (2x)