Enhance Your Crocheting Skills by Crafting an Adorable Little Cow: A Charming Amigurumi Guide
Crocheting a little cow can bring such joy and charm to your day! The process of carefully crafting each stitch to create the adorable features of a cow is not only fun but also incredibly rewarding. Whether you're making it for yourself or as a gift for a loved one, the little cow will surely bring smiles and warmth wherever it goes.
So grab your yarn and hook, and let's create a cute and cuddly companion that will brighten up any room with its whimsical charm!Supplies
To get started, gather the following supplies:
- Cotton yarn (e.g., Schachenmayr Catania 125m/50g) in three colors: brown, rose, and blue
- A bit of beige yarn for spots
- Crochet hook 3 mm
- Polyester fiberfill stuffing
- Scissors
- Yarn needle
Skill Level
Intermediate
Size
The ready amigurumi is approximately 20 cm. It can be made bigger or smaller depending on the yarn and hook you use.
Skills You Need
- Chain
- Single crochet
- Double crochet
- Half double crochet
- Slip stitch
- Increase
- Decrease
Abbreviations
- Ch = chain
- St = stitch
- Sc = single crochet
- Sl st = slip stitch
- Dec = decrease stitch (two single crochets together)
- Inc = increase stitch (two single crochets into one stitch)
- Dc = double crochet
- Rnd = round
Tips
- Do not join rounds; work in a continuous spiral.
- Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the end or the beginning of a round.
- All stitches are worked into both loops unless stated otherwise in the pattern.
- Amigurumi can be made in any desired colors.
Seamless Way of Changing Color
Pick up the new color at the end of the round: insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over the new color, and pull through the stitch and the loop on your hook to complete the stitch.
Shift Stitch
During the work of spiral amigurumi, you may need to keep the work symmetrical. As work tends to twist to the right, you need to adjust the position of the marker periodically (beginning of the round).
Shift stitch is an extra stitch you work at the end of a round to make your work look symmetrical. If you notice that the marker moves right, you need to work one extra stitch at the end of the round and move the marker for one stitch (now the 2nd stitch of the round becomes 1st). This is the shift stitch.
The shift stitch is not included in the round description. To check if it’s time to work a shift stitch, fold your work in half and check if the marker still goes straight or use yarn that marks a straight line.
You may think this is an increase, but it isn’t. This way, you don’t increase or decrease the amount of stitches, and the stitch count remains the same.
Instructions
Arm (2x)
Start with blue color yarn.
Round 1: 6 sc into Magic Ring
Round 2: Inc 6 times (12 stitches)
Round 3: *Sc in each of the next 3 stitches, inc* (15 stitches)
Rounds 4-6: Sc in each of the next 15 stitches
Change the yarn color to brown.
Round 7 (working into the back loop): Sc in each of the next 15 stitches
Round 8: *Dec, sc in each of the next 3 stitches* (12 stitches)
Stuff the arm slightly.
Rounds 9-18: Sc in each of the next 12 stitches
Bind off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Work the second arm the same way.
Leg (2x)
Use light blue color yarn and begin with a magic ring.
Round 1: 6 sc into Magic Ring
Round 2: Inc 6 times (12 stitches)
Round 3: *Sc in each of the next 3 stitches, inc* (15 stitches)
Rounds 4-6: Sc in each of the next 15 stitches
Change the yarn color to brown.
Round 7: Sc in each of the next 15 stitches
Round 8: *Sc in each of the next 4 stitches, inc* (18 stitches)
Round 9: Sc in each of the next 18 stitches
Round 10: *Sc in each of the next 5 stitches, inc* (21 stitches)
Rounds 11-13: Sc in each of the next 21 stitches
Cast off the first leg. Work the second leg the same way but don’t cut the yarn as we will join the legs together to make the body. Stuff both legs firmly.
Body
Work the shift stitch every 3-4 rounds. Continue crocheting in rounds:
Round 1: Make a chain of 5 stitches, work one round over both legs (21 stitches around the first leg, sc in each of the next 5 stitches, joining the second leg - 21 stitches around the second leg)
This is the beginning of the body. Continue working the body:
Round 2: Sc in each of the next 15 stitches, inc, sc in each of the next 25 stitches, inc, sc in each of the next 10 stitches (54 stitches)
Round 3: Sc in each of the next 54 stitches
Round 4: Sc in each of the next 16 stitches, inc, sc in each of the next 26 stitches, inc, sc in each of the next 10 stitches (56 stitches)
Rounds 5-8: Sc in each of the next 56 stitches
Round 9: Sc in each of the next 14 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of the next 23 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of the next 9 stitches (52 stitches)
Rounds 10-11: Sc in each of the next 52 stitches
Round 12: Sc in each of the next 13 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of the next 21 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of the next 8 stitches (48 stitches)
Rounds 13-14: Sc in each of the next 48 stitches
Round 15: Sc in each of the next 12 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of the next 19 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of the next 7 stitches (44 stitches)
Rounds 16-19: Sc in each of the next 44 stitches
Round 20: Sc in each of the next 11 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of the next 17 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of the next 6 stitches (40 stitches)
Rounds 21-23: Sc in each of the next 40 stitches
Round 24: Sc in each of the next 10 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of the next 15 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of the next 5 stitches (36 stitches)
Round 25: Sc in each of the next 9 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of the next 13 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of the next 4 stitches (32 stitches)
In the next round, attach the hands (ensure that the hands are located in the middle and make several shift stitches if needed):
Round 26: Sc in each of the next 6 stitches, 6 sc both through the arm and body, sc in each of the next 11 stitches, 6 sc both through the arm and body, sc in each of the next 3 stitches.
Stuff the body firmly.
Round 27: Sc in each of the next 32 stitches
Round 28: Sc in each of the next 8 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of the next 11 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of the next 3 stitches (28 stitches)
Round 29: Sc in each of the next 7 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of the next 9 stitches, dec, sc in next stitch, dec, sc in each of the next 2 stitches (24 stitches)
Round 30: Sc in each of the next 24 stitches
Head
Continue crocheting head as follows:
Round 1: *Sc in next stitch, inc* (36 stitches)
Round 2: *Sc in each of the next 2 stitches, inc* (48 stitches)
Round 3: *Sc in each of the next 7 stitches, inc* (54 stitches)
Round 4: *Sc in each of the next 8 stitches, inc* (60 stitches)
Rounds 5-12: Sc in each of the next 60 stitches
Round 16: *Dec, sc in each of the next 8 sts* (54 stitches)
Round 17: Sc in each of the next 54 stitches
Round 18: *Dec, sc in each of the next 7 stitches* (48 stitches)
Round 19: *Dec, sc in each of the next 6 stitches* (42 stitches)
Round 20: *Dec, sc in each of the next 5 stitches* (36 stitches)
Round 21: *Dec, sc in each of the next 4 stitches* (30 stitches)
Round 22: *Dec, sc in each of the next 3 stitches* (24 stitches)
Stuff the head firmly.
Round 23: *Dec, sc in each of the next 2 stitches* (18 stitches)
Round 24: *Dec, sc in the next stitch* (12 stitches)
Round 25: *Dec*, repeat 6 times.
Bind off.
Horn (2x)
Crochet with light blue color yarn and begin with a magic ring.
Round 1: 6 sc into Magic Ring.
Round 2: Sc in each of the next 6 stitches
Round 3: *Sc in next stitch, inc* (9 stitches)
Round 4: Sc in each of the next 9 stitches
Round 5: *Sc in each of the next 2 stitches, inc* (12 stitches)
Round 6: Sc in each of the next 12 stitches
Stuff the horn slightly.
Bind off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Work the second horn the same way.
Muzzle
Use rose color yarn.
Round 1: Starting at center with chain of 6 stitches, sc in the 2nd chain from the hook and each of the next 3 stitches, 3 sc in the next stitch, then, working on the other side of the base chain, sc in each of the next 3 stitches, 2 sc in each of the next 2 stitches.
Round 2: Sc in each of the next 3 stitches, 2 sc in each of the next 3 stitches, sc in each of the next 3 stitches, 2 sc in each of the next 3 stitches.
Round 3: Sc in each of the next 4 stitches, (sc in the next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) three times, sc in each of the next 3 stitches, (sc in the next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) three times.
Round 4 (working into the back loop): Sc in each of the next stitches around.
Round 5: Sc in each of the next stitches till the end of the round.
Stuff slightly. Bind off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Ear (2x)
Outside
Crochet with light blue color yarn.
Round 1: 6 sc into Magic Ring
Round 2: Inc 6 times (12 stitches)
Round 3: *Sc in next stitch, inc* (18 stitches)
Do not bind off. Work the second ear the same way.
Inside
Now work using the rose color yarn:
Round 1: 6 sc into Magic Ring
Round 2: Inc 6 times (12 stitches)
Round 3: *Sc in next stitch, inc* (18 stitches)
Close the work by passing the last loop in the crochet hook through the first stitch of the round. Put the two pieces of the ear on top of each other, wrong side together. Join the edges with sc's.
Bind off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Udder
Work using rose color yarn.
Round 1: Starting at center with chain of 6 stitches, sc in the 2nd chain from the hook and each of the next 3 stitches, 3 sc in the next stitch, then, working on the other side of the base chain, sc in each of the next 3 stitches, 2 sc in each of the next 2 stitches.
Round 2: Sc in each of the next 3 stitches, 2 sc in each of the next 3 stitches, sc in each of the next 3 stitches, 2 sc in each of the next 3 stitches.
Round 3: Sc in each of the next 4 stitches, (sc in the next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) three times, sc in each of the next 3 stitches, (sc in the next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) three times.
Round 4 (working into the back loop): Sc in each of the next stitches around.
Round 5: Sc in each of the next stitches till the end of the round.
Stuff slightly. Bind off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Spots
Crochet using rose or beige color yarn.
Round 1: Starting at center with chain of 4 stitches, sc in the 2nd chain from the hook and next stitch, 3 sc in the next stitch, then, working on the other side of the base chain, sc in the next stitch, 2 sc in each of the next 2 stitches.
Round 2: Sc in the next stitch, 2 dc in each of the next 3 stitches, sc in the next stitch, 2 sc in each of the next 3 stitches.
Bind off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Assembly
Sew the muzzle onto the head and the udder to the body.
Mark where you want the eyes to be placed with pins and sew them with a distance of 4-6 stitches from the head of the cow. Weave in all ends.
Ears and horns are then attached to the head. Thread a needle on one of the yarn tails left from the ears, fold the bottom of the ear toward the center, and sew it to the other side. Place the ears in their correct positions on the head. Using the yarn left, sew them to the head of your amigurumi. Be sure to step back and take a look to ensure ears and horns are even.
Sew spots onto the body.
Embroider eyebrows with black color yarn. Insert the needle through the top of the head and pull it through, leaving a little bit of a tail. Then, insert the needle again and pull it through where you want your cow's eyebrows to be. At the end, pull the needle out the same hole it originally went into, so that both yarn tails are coming out of the same hole. Tie a knot with both yarn tails as close to the surface of the head as possible. Hide the yarn tails inside the head.
Tail
Braided tail: Cut 4 strands of the desired color yarn. Pass through stitch space, braid, knot, and trim ends.